Essential for many Southwestern and Mexican dishes, but also a wonderful seasoning for sprinkling on at the table. Chili powders vary, but they are generally based on a combination of ground chiles, cumin, coriander, oregano, and black pepper.

Toast on the stovetop or in the oven:

Let cool and set aside. Toast until fragrant and browned in a dry skillet over medium heat:

Transfer to a bowl. Once cool, crush the chiles and add them along with the spices to a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Add:

Grind the ingredients into a fine powder. If using as a condiment, grind in:

Prepare version I, substituting ½ cup ancho, chipotle, or other pure ground chile powder for the whole chiles and 1 tablespoon each ground cumin, ground coriander, and black pepper (if using) for the whole spices.

For a more flavorful velouté, start with up to twice as much stock as is called for below and reduce it to the specified volume before whisking into the roux. If serving this sauce with fish or shellfish you may substitute 3 tablespoons Shrimp or Lobster Butter for the butter in the roux.

Heat in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until hot:

Meanwhile, melt in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat:

Stir in:

Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring constantly, until the roux smells nutty and is ivory colored, about 6 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool for 2 minutes. Gradually whisk the warm stock into the roux. Return the saucepan to the heat and bring the sauce slowly to a simmer, whisking to prevent lumps. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring often and skimming any skin that forms on the surface, until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 20 minutes; do not boil.

If desired, strain through a fine-mesh sieve and, just before serving, whisk in:

If you are using this sauce as is, season to taste with:

Prepared in about 30 minutes, this sauce makes the wonders of brown sauce much more accessible. If made with mushroom stock, it is vegetarian.

Melt in a large wide saucepan over medium-high heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until well browned, about 10 minutes:

Reduce the heat to medium and add:

Cook, stirring, until the sugar and tomato paste, if using, are deeply browned (do not burn them). Carefully whisk in:

Bring to a boil and boil until reduced by half, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk in:

Bring to a rolling boil over high heat and boil for 4 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a heatproof bowl and set aside. Melt in the same saucepan over medium heat:

Whisk in and cook, stirring, until the roux is walnut brown, 5 to 8 minutes:

Whisk in the strained stock along with:

Bring to a boil, whisking, and simmer briskly until it is the consistency of heavy cream, 15 to 20 minutes. Strain again, if desired, and if using as is, blend in:

A roux-based gravy suitable for poultry, beef, pork, and milder lamb and venison. If desired, you may strain the drippings first and remove excess fat, then return some of the fat to the pan to make the roux. To use a thickener other than flour, please see About Thickeners for Sauces for the correct amount to add for the amount of liquid below. This method works best for smaller cuts cooked in a skillet such as steaks, chops, or chicken parts. If the meat has been cooked in a roasting pan, see About Gravies and Pan Sauces for the easiest way to proceed.

Remove the meat or poultry from the pan, place it on a platter, and keep warm. Pour off all the pan juices, leaving behind or adding:

Place the pan over medium-low heat (melt the butter, if using). Gradually whisk in:

Cook, whisking constantly, until the roux is smooth and the flour is nutty and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Gradually whisk in:

Simmer gently until thickened, up to 10 minutes. Season to taste with:

Strain the gravy, if desired, and reheat before serving.

This sauce is a simple accompaniment to roast chicken, turkey, or pork loin. Unlike the roux-based gravy above, this can be left unthickened, although the addition of kneaded butter will give it a gravy-like body without the hassle of making a roux. The amounts given here are for a small chicken. For a Quick Turkey Gravy deglaze the roasting pan with ½ cup white wine, sherry, stock, or water, use 4 cups chicken or turkey stock, and thicken the mixture with 4 tablespoons softened butter and ¼ cup flour mixed together into a paste.

After transferring the meat to a platter, pour into the roasting pan:

Place the roasting pan on 2 burners over medium-high heat. Bring the juices to a simmer and, using a wooden spoon, scrape up the browned bits in the bottom of the pan. Pour the mixture into a heatproof glass container and let the fat rise to the top, then skim off the fat and discard. (You can also use a gravy separator.) Transfer the mixture to a small saucepan. Add the juices that have accumulated around the meat along with:

Bring to a simmer. If desired, to thicken the sauce into a gravy, mix to a smooth paste:

Whisk the paste bit by bit into the simmering sauce and cook until thickened. Season with:

This classic accompaniment to roasted turkey benefits from a rich, brown giblet stock and a blond roux (for an easier option, see Quick Turkey Gravy). This gravy can be prepared as the turkey roasts, or up to 2 days ahead of time, and the pan juices added when they are ready. Confirm that your turkey comes with giblets, which are typically wrapped in paper or plastic and tucked inside the cavity; if it does not, you will need to buy them separately. Even if your turkey does include giblets, you may need to buy extra if you are increasing this recipe by half or doubling it.

Rinse and pat dry:

Chop the neck into 2-inch pieces. Cut the heart lengthwise in half, and divide the gizzard at the lobes. Remove any connective strings and excess fat from the liver and set aside. Heat in a large, wide saucepan over medium heat:

Add the turkey parts (except for the liver) to the pan, then scatter around them:

Cook, without stirring, until the turkey parts are richly browned on the first side, 5 to 10 minutes; reduce the heat slightly if the ingredients begin to burn. Turn and brown the second side in the same manner. Add:

Partially cover the pan and simmer very slowly until the meat is tender, about 1 hour. Add the reserved liver and simmer until firm, about 5 minutes.

Strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve and add to measure 4 cups:

Finely chop the neck meat and giblets and add to the stock. Discard the strained vegetables and herbs. Melt in the saucepan over medium heat:

Gradually whisk in:

Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture has browned slightly and smells nutty, about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. For an especially silky gravy, transfer the stock to a saucepan and bring it to a furious boil, then pour it all at once into the roux, whisking as you pour. Otherwise, simply whisk the warm stock into the roux, blending thoroughly. Whisking constantly, bring the gravy to a simmer over medium heat and cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and cover. If you will be finishing and serving the gravy within 1 hour, let it stand at room temperature; otherwise, let it cool and refrigerate.

When the turkey is done, transfer it to a platter to rest, and begin warming the gravy over low heat. Remove the rack from the roasting pan. If the juices have evaporated, leaving only fat and browned bits on the bottom of the pan, carefully pour out the fat and discard it, retaining all the browned bits. If there are juices left, tilt the pan and skim off as much fat as possible with a spoon (or pour the fat and juices into a cup, let the fat rise to the top, and skim it off). Set the pan on 2 burners over medium heat. Pour in:

Bring to a simmer, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to loosen the browned bits. Pour the drippings into the gravy. Place the gravy over medium heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes to blend the flavors. Season to taste with:

Pour into a gravy boat and serve immediately.

A bright and lively sauce for beef, lamb, pork, or chicken. This sauce can also be made without pan drippings, in which case, cook the shallots first in oil or butter.

After pan-frying steaks, lamb chops, pork chops, or chicken pieces, transfer them to a platter and keep warm. Pour off most of the excess fat and set the pan over medium heat. Add:

Cook, stirring, until softened but not browned. Increase the heat to medium-high and add:

Stir with a wooden spoon to loosen and dissolve any browned bits, then bring to a boil and add:

Cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly reduced and thickened, 1 to 2 minutes. If desired, add and cook until reduced by about half, 1 to 2 minutes:

Take off the heat and swirl in bit by bit:

Remove the bay leaf, if used, or, for a perfectly smooth sauce, strain it through a fine-mesh sieve. Stir in:

Spoon the sauce over the meat and garnish with:

This sauce is particularly nice with game birds. To turn this into a true Bigarade Sauce for duck or goose, use the zest and juice from a Seville (bitter) orange and omit the lemon juice.

With a fork, mash together in a small bowl until combined:

Set aside. Using a vegetable peeler, remove strips of zest from:

Cut the zest into slivers about ⅛ inch wide and 1 inch long. Place the zest in a small saucepan, add 4 cups cold water, and bring to a boil over high heat; cook 1 minute. Drain the zest in a sieve, rinse with cold water, and pat dry.

Transfer the roasted bird(s) to a platter and keep warm. Pour off the fat from the roasting pan. Pour into the pan:

Set the pan over medium heat (on 2 burners if necessary) and bring to a simmer, scraping the pan bottom with a wooden spoon to dissolve the browned bits. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside. Combine in a small heavy saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring, until a light brown, caramel color:

Add the contents of the roasting pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Whisk in the orange zest along with:

Bring to a simmer, stir the softened butter and flour mixture into the sauce, and simmer for 1 minute or until thickened. Spoon the sauce over the bird(s) and garnish with:

After pan-frying steak, venison steaks, or pork chops, transfer them to a platter and keep warm.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from the skillet and set it over medium heat. Add and cook, stirring, until just starting to soften and brown:

Meanwhile, combine and set aside:

Add to the onions:

Bring to a boil, stirring with a wooden spoon to loosen and dissolve any browned bits, and cook for 1 minute. Add the stock and dried cherries along with:

Bring to a boil over high heat and cook, stirring often, until reduced by half and thickened, about 2 minutes. Remove the zest. Stir in any accumulated juices from the meat. Season with:

If desired, for a velvety texture, swirl in bit by bit:

Arrange the meat on plates and spoon over the sauce.

Known in the South by the names sawmill gravy, white gravy, and cream gravy, this fortifying mixture, served atop freshly baked biscuits, 634–37, has fueled many a hard day’s work. For a spicier result, use 8 ounces Fresh Chorizo Sausage, diced andouille sausage, or tasso ham.

Brown in a large skillet, breaking up the meat with a spatula or spoon:

Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons drippings from the skillet. If necessary, add enough:

to make 2 tablespoons. Stir into the drippings and whisk until the roux is smooth:

Whisking constantly, add and cook until thickened, about 5 minutes:

Season with:

Fold the reserved sausage into the sauce.

This vegetarian gravy is the perfect substitute for sausage gravy on warm buttermilk biscuits.

Heat in a small saucepan over medium heat:

Add and cook until softened, about 4 minutes:

Add and cook, stirring, until they start to brown, about 4 minutes:

Stir in and cook, stirring, for 1 minute:

Slowly whisk in:

Increase the heat to medium-high, bring to a simmer, and cook, stirring, until the gravy thickens, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with:

I. To add flavor to this delicate sauce, you may infuse the milk first: Bring it to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat with 1 bay leaf and 1 thick onion slice stuck with 2 whole cloves. Immediately take off the heat, cover, and let stand for 15 minutes. Fish out the onion and bay leaf and proceed as directed.

Melt in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat:

Whisk in until well blended and smooth, about 1 ½ minutes:

Remove the pan from the heat and slowly whisk in:

Return the pan to the heat and bring to a simmer, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Continue to cook, whisking, until the sauce is smooth and hot and has thickened, 1 to 2 minutes. If you are using this sauce as is, season to taste with:

Prepare White Sauce I, using 3 tablespoons butter, 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, and 1 cup milk.

Whisk into White Sauce I or II one of the following:

I. Prepare White Sauce I, using 2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil or vegan butter, and substituting 1 cup unsweetened soy milk for the milk.

Pureeing rice with stock produces the look and feel of heavy cream. Add seasonings and herbs to serve with pasta or vegetables, or use as an ingredient in casseroles and soups.

Heat in a medium saucepan over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until softened:

Add and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes:

Add:

Bring to a simmer, then cover, reduce the heat, and simmer gently until the liquid is almost absorbed and the rice is very soft, about 35 minutes. Let cool slightly, then transfer to a blender or food processor and puree until smooth. With the machine running, add until the desired consistency is reached:

Season with:

Desperate parents have been hiding nutritious vegetables under a cloak of Mornay for decades, and it is the backbone of a good Macaroni and Cheese. It can be spread over everything from cauliflower to lobster, then browned in the oven or under a broiler. Using equal parts Gruyère and Parmesan is traditional, but practically any aged cheese, alone or in combination, can be very good. Try Swiss or Cheddar, or mix milder cheeses with sharper pungent ones like Gorgonzola, Roquefort, and Stilton. For a richer, cheesier sauce for broccoli or baked potatoes, use the larger amount of cheese listed below.

Prepare:

When it is smooth and hot, reduce the heat to low and stir in:

Cook, stirring, just until the cheese is melted, or the cheese may turn stringy. Season with:

Should the sauce become stringy, bring it just to a simmer and whisk in:

then remove from the heat.

For fish, veal, sweetbreads, lamb, or main-course vegetables.

Combine in a medium heavy saucepan over medium-low heat:

Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are tender but not browned, about 25 minutes. Stir in:

Cook, stirring, until smooth, about 1 ½ minutes. Whisk in:

Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until thick, 1 to 2 minutes. Strain through a medium-mesh sieve into a small saucepan. The sauce will be thick. Set over low heat and slowly whisk in until the desired consistency is reached:

Season with:

Best with chicken, fish, or vegetables.

Prepare:

and with the following additions: If desired, lightly sauté in the butter before adding the flour:

Add to the saucepan along with the stock:

Just before adjusting the seasoning and serving, whisk in:

Few of us may have to worry about what to do with leftover Champagne, but should that dilemma ever be yours, you may use it here instead of white wine.

Prepare, but do not season:

using Fumet to replace the stock, if desired, if serving with fish. Have ready:

Combine in a medium saucepan and boil until reduced almost to a glaze:

Remove the wine mixture from the heat and, stirring with a wooden spoon, add the butter piece by piece so that it softens but does not liquefy and the sauce retains a creamy texture. Add:

Meanwhile, heat the velouté sauce until hot but not boiling. Whisk in the butter mixture. Season to taste with:

Serve at once.

Serve lukewarm over fish, light meats, or poultry.

Combine in a small saucepan:

Bring to a boil and cook, stirring constantly, until the vinegar has almost evaporated, about 1 minute. Add:

Simmer gently for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Season to taste with:

Cool the sauce to lukewarm, then add:

An enriched velouté to be used with poached chicken or vegetables. It becomes Poulette Sauce if, as a final step, you add finely chopped parsley. When serving with fish or lamb, we like to stir in a generous tablespoon of chopped drained capers. Do not let the sauce boil after the egg is added or it will curdle.

Prepare:

Remove the velouté from the heat and stir in:

Return the sauce to low heat and cook until slightly thickened. Just before serving, stir in:

To increase the usefulness of this time-consuming sauce, prepare it and freeze in cubes (see Keeping Sauces) or 1-cup amounts, then reheat and use as is or as a base for any of the brown sauce variations that follow.

Heat in a large heavy saucepan or Dutch oven:

Add and cook, stirring, until beginning to brown:

Add and cook, stirring until the flour is thoroughly browned:

Stir in:

Add:

Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by half, 2 to 2 ½ hours. Stir occasionally and skim off the fat as it rises to the top. The sauce should be the consistency of heavy cream, and no thicker.

Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Stir occasionally as the sauce cools to prevent the formation of a skin. If necessary, thin with additional stock or water. If you are using this sauce as is, season to taste with:

A brown sauce made thicker and more flavorful by additional stock and reduction. Serve with filet mignon or game or use as a base for other sauces.

Combine in a large heavy saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat:

Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat slightly and simmer gently, uncovered, skimming often to remove fat and scum, until reduced by half, 2 to 2 ½ hours.

Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean saucepan. Stir in over very low heat:

If desired, just before serving, whisk in, small pieces at a time:

A wonderful accompaniment to game or beef filet. Dry sherry or port may be substituted for the Madeira. For Sauce Périgueux, stir in 1 tablespoon minced black truffles before adding the butter.

Bring to a simmer in a medium saucepan:

Simmer until reduced to 1 cup. Add:

Swirl in bit by bit, if desired:

A good choice for hearty meats. For Sauce Piquant, stir in with the herbs 1 tablespoon chopped drained capers and 1 tablespoon chopped cornichons, or other sour pickles.

Melt in a medium saucepan over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until golden brown:

Add and simmer until reduced by two-thirds:

Add and simmer for 15 minutes:

Just before serving, add:

Traditionally served with game, this sauce is also delectable with roasted meats or poultry, steaks, or chops.

Melt in a medium heavy saucepan over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until softened:

Add and cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes:

Add and simmer until reduced by half:

Add and simmer for 5 minutes:

Just before serving, stir in:

Swirl in bit by bit, if desired:

This sauce can be made a week ahead. If possible, use large dried Calimyrna figs rather than the smaller, darker Mission figs. This sauce is perfect for Pan-Seared Duck Breasts.

Combine in a medium saucepan:

Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally. Add:

Return to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer gently until the figs are very soft but still retain their shape, about 45 minutes. If the liquid reduces to less than 1 cup before the figs are soft, add a little water.

Remove from the heat and discard the lemon zest and bay leaf. Puree 3 of the figs with ½ cup of the liquid in a food processor or blender until very smooth. Stir the puree back into the figs. If needed, thin the sauce with:

Or, if the sauce is a little thin, boil and reduce it until syrupy.

Serve with steak, sweetbreads, chops, or game. For Sauce Bordelaise, omit the butter and swirl in ¼ cup diced prepared beef marrow just before serving.

Combine in a small heavy saucepan over medium-high heat:

Bring to a simmer and cook until reduced by three-quarters. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium saucepan. Place over medium heat and stir in:

Simmer for 15 minutes. Just before serving, stir in:

A simpler alternative to Béchamel. This rich sauce is especially delicious with sautéed wild mushrooms or pasta.

Combine in a medium saucepan:

Bring to a rolling boil, stirring occasionally with a whisk only to prevent boiling over. Reduce the heat slightly and reduce by half. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Season to taste with:

This Greek sauce is good with lamb or green vegetables. For other hot egg sauces, see Sauce Allemande and About Hollandaise and Béarnaise.

Bring to a simmer in a small saucepan and keep warm:

Beat in a medium bowl until thickened:

Beat in:

Beat half of the hot stock into the egg mixture, then whisk this mixture back into the remaining stock. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium-low or low heat until the sauce is thick and creamy and coats the back of the spoon; do not let the sauce boil, or it will curdle. Remove from the heat and season to taste with:

Serve immediately.

For about 1 pound of vegetables. Delicious mixed with chicken or tofu and vegetables and served over rice.

Blend until smooth in a small bowl:

Add:

Pour over the cooked vegetables in the pan. Stir well until the whole mixture comes just to a boil and the sauce thickens, then take it off the heat at once.

A deeply flavored sauce for roast chicken, duck, or goose.

Combine in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat:

Boil until reduced to a syrup, about 15 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes, then pass through a food mill or puree in a blender or food processor and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Return the puree to the pan and stir in:

Simmer until thickened, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with:

Combine in a small saucepan:

Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook just until the sauce is the consistency of light syrup. If it becomes too thick, dilute it with stock or water. Season to taste with:

A much quicker alternative to time-consuming brown sauces. This deeply flavored, magenta-colored sauce is silky and rich. Serve with beef, roasted poultry, or Poached Eggs.

Melt in a large, wide saucepan over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables soften, about 10 minutes:

Add, bring to a simmer, and cook for 30 minutes:

Strain, discard the solids, and return the liquid to the saucepan. Boil until reduced to 1 cup, about 15 minutes. While the sauce reduces, mash together with a fork until the mixture forms a paste:

Whisk the butter-flour mixture into the sauce at the last second, simmer briefly until thickened, and remove from the heat. If desired, stir into the sauce:

Season with:

Mole comes from molli, the Nahuatl word for “sauce.” Many used to think the word was derived from the Spanish verb moler, or “to grind.” Both, however, are accurate: Moles are as variable as the word “sauce” suggests, and are made from ground or pureed chiles, vegetables, spices, nuts, and, occasionally, chocolate. Serve this red mole with chicken, turkey, or pork. Leftover sauce can be frozen, but to regain the smooth texture, you may need to puree it in a blender before reheating it.

Heat in a medium heavy skillet or griddle (preferably cast iron), over medium heat:

Roast, turning occasionally, until soft and charred on all sides, about 15 minutes. Let cool, then peel. Meanwhile, remove the stems and seeds from:

Tear the chiles into flat pieces. Lightly toast the chiles in the hot skillet, pressing them flat with a metal spatula, for about 10 seconds on each side (you may also toast them in the oven). Transfer to a bowl, add hot water to cover, and submerge them with a plate. Let soak for 30 minutes. Drain the chiles and place in a blender along with the garlic. Add:

Blend the mixture until smooth, then press it through a medium-mesh sieve into a bowl and set aside. Heat in a Dutch oven over medium heat until hot:

Add and cook, stirring constantly, until lightly toasted, about 3 minutes:

With a slotted spoon, transfer the almonds to the blender. Add to the hot oil remaining in the pot:

Cook, stirring occasionally, until nicely browned, about 8 minutes. With the slotted spoon, transfer the onion to the blender. Add to the hot pot:

Cook, stirring constantly, until puffed, about 30 seconds. Scoop the raisins into the blender. Add to the blender:

Blend until very smooth. Heat in the Dutch oven over medium heat until hot:

Add the reserved ancho mixture and cook, stirring, until it darkens and becomes very thick, about 5 minutes. Stir in the almond mixture and cook until very thick, about 5 minutes. Stir in:

Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, partially cover, and simmer, stirring often, for 45 minutes. Season with:

This rich, buttery Guanajuato-style mole gets much of its flavor from toasted sesame and pumpkin seeds. It is delicious served with a wide variety of meats and vegetables, and we love to reheat shredded leftover chicken or pork directly in the simmering mole. Or, toss meat to be used in tamales in the mole to flavor it.

Heat in a medium skillet over medium heat:

Toast, stirring frequently, until browned and fragrant, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a bowl. Place the skillet back on the heat and add:

Toast, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the pumpkin seeds. Place in a blender:

Add the pumpkin and sesame seeds and blend until completely smooth, adding a little water if necessary to blend. The mixture will be very thick. At this point, the mole can be kept refrigerated for up to 5 days or used immediately. Transfer the mole to a medium saucepan and whisk in:

If the sauce is very thick, add more chicken stock or water to reach the desired consistency. Bring to a simmer. Serve with:

Whether made with fresh or dried chiles, this sauce is perfect on top of enchiladas and Huevos Rancheros, or diluted with water or stock and used as a braising liquid for cubes of pork shoulder. Although it is not traditional, we sometimes substitute a can of Mexican lager for some of the water or stock.

If desired, you may use 2 ½ ounces dried whole New Mexico chiles instead of chile powder. Remove their stems and seeds, roast them, break them into pieces, and add with the liquid. Simmer for 15 minutes as directed below, then puree in a blender until completely smooth (note that if using dried chiles, the sauce won’t thicken to a gravy-like consistency until after pureeing).

Heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes:

Add and cook 1 minute more:

Stir in and cook for 1 minute:

Stir in:

Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to maintain a slow bubble. Cook, stirring frequently, until thickened to a gravy-like consistency, about 15 minutes. Season to taste with:

One of our favorites for Huevos Rancheros.

Have ready:

Peel, seed, and chop the roasted chiles. Prepare version I through sautéing the onion and garlic. Stir in:

Add the roasted chiles instead of the chile powder. Add only 2 cups water or stock, and season as directed. Increase the heat to medium-high and simmer until thickened, about 5 minutes.

Serve this deeply flavored sauce with roasted or grilled meats, chicken, fish, or pasta.

Heat in a large heavy skillet over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring often, until lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes:

Stir in and cook, stirring, for 1 minute:

Add:

Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low, partially cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. Puree the sauce in a blender or food processor. Season to taste with:

Perfect for Enchiladas Verdes. You can use this technique with almost any vegetable to create a range of vibrant sauces: Simply roast the vegetables until they are soft and beginning to caramelize and then puree the hot vegetables in a blender or food processor along with all their cooking juices, a bit of stock, and seasonings to match.

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Spread in a single layer in an oiled baking pan:

Roast until very soft, 40 to 45 minutes. Transfer the vegetables, including the pan juices, to a blender or food processor and add:

Pulse until smooth, adding more stock if necessary to make a medium-bodied sauce. Reheat gently in a small saucepan and serve or store, refrigerated, for up to 2 days. Reheat before serving.

Don’t bother peeling the tomatoes if you plan to put the sauce through a food mill. Furthermore, if you don’t mind a chunky tomato sauce, there is no need to peel the tomatoes or food-mill the sauce. For a classic, roux-thickened French tomato sauce (called Sauce Tomate), replace the olive oil with 2 tablespoons butter, then add 2 tablespoons flour to the softened vegetables and cook, stirring, until the flour is nutty and fragrant. Proceed as directed and pass the sauce through a food mill.

Heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add:

Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are very soft, about 15 minutes. Add and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds:

Stir in:

Simmer, uncovered, crushing the tomatoes with a potato masher or a wooden spoon to break them up, until the sauce is thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Pass through a food mill for a smooth sauce.

The simplest sauce for seafood and pastas.

Combine in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat:

Simmer, uncovered, crushing the tomatoes with a potato masher or a wooden spoon to break them up, until the sauce is thickened, about 10 minutes. For a smoother texture, you may pass the sauce through a food mill or puree in a blender or a food processor. Season to taste with:

This raw puree “cooks” on the pie. You might be tempted to add raw garlic here, but pizzas bake through before the garlic can mellow out, leaving a harsh flavor. If garlic is a must in your pizza sauce, use pureed Marinara Sauce.

Puree in a blender or food processor until mostly smooth:

Make this easy formula when you can get juicy fresh tomatoes and the weather is too hot for simmering sauces. It’s good on bruschetta as well as over pasta. If serving with pasta, we like to toss the hot pasta with small cubes of fresh mozzarella cheese before adding the tomato sauce and sprinkle each portion with 1 to 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar.

Drain in a colander for 20 minutes:

Transfer to a large bowl and stir in:

Let stand for at least 30 minutes. Serve at room temperature.

Prepare a medium-hot grill fire, or position an oven rack 6 inches from the heat. Preheat the broiler.

Place on the grill or under the broiler:

Turn with tongs as the skin chars. When lightly charred all over, cool, then puree or chop in a food processor or blender. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in:

The combination of cinnamon, bay leaf, garlic, olives, and pickles in a tomato sauce may seem odd, but this sauce is irresistible with grilled fish and pork. For a braised dish that uses this sauce, see Veracruz-Style Snapper. Use “true” cinnamon or canela for the best result.

Heat in a medium saucepan over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes:

Add and cook 1 minute more:

Stir in:

Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Tie together tightly into a bundle:

Add the bundle to the pan along with:

Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring, until the sauce is thick but not pasty, 15 to 20 minutes. Discard the herb bundle, bay leaf, and cinnamon. Season to taste with:

This sauce is the perfect partner for bucatini; shave a little Pecorino Romano on top.

Place in a large heavy skillet over medium heat:

Or use instead of the bacon:

Cook, stirring, until the bacon or pancetta has rendered most of its fat and turned deep golden brown, about 10 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from the skillet. Return the skillet to medium heat. Add and cook, stirring, until golden brown:

Add and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, being careful not to burn the garlic:

Increase the heat to high and add:

Stir in the bacon or pancetta and simmer, crushing the tomatoes with a potato masher or a wooden spoon, until thickened, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with:

Puttanesca, or “streetwalker’s” sauce, is assembled from pantry items and ready in minutes, making it ideal for busy cooks drawn to the spicy, punchy combination of olives, capers, anchovies, and dried chiles. An inspired choice for dressing pasta or as a topping for white-fleshed fish, sautéed chicken breasts, or Roasted Cauliflower Wedges.

Heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, just until the garlic is pale blond, about 30 seconds:

Stir in and cook for about 30 seconds:

Stir in:

Simmer, uncovered, crushing the tomatoes with a potato masher or a wooden spoon, until the sauce is thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in:

Season to taste with:

A simple and relatively quick sauce. For a deluxe, long-simmered upgrade, see Hearty Beef Ragu.

Add to a large heavy saucepan or skillet:

If using pancetta or bacon, cook over medium heat, stirring, until it renders its fat, and drain off all but 2 tablespoons. Increase the heat to medium-high and add:

Cook, stirring, until the meat browns, about 7 minutes. Transfer the meat to a plate and pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from the pan. Add and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes:

Add and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes:

Add the reserved meat and:

Cook, uncovered, crushing the tomatoes with a potato masher or a wooden spoon, until they have cooked down and smell very fragrant, about 15 minutes. Cover and cook over low heat, stirring often, until the sauce is thickened, about 30 minutes. Stir in:

While beef and pork are the main ingredients in this long-simmered ragu, we have given it a home near its tomato-rich, pasta-friendly brethren. (For Cincinnati’s version of Bolognese, see Cincinnati Chili Cockaigne.) For a chunkier ragu of braised lamb or beef, see Hearty Beef Ragu.

Heat in a large saucepan over medium-low heat:

Cook, stirring, until the pancetta or bacon releases its fat but is not browned, about 8 minutes. Increase the heat to medium and add:

Cook, stirring, until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add and brown:

Stir in:

Reduce the heat to low and simmer gently, partially covered, skimming off the fat occasionally. From time to time as the sauce simmers, add 2 tablespoons at a time:

Cook until the sauce is the consistency of thick soup, about 2 hours. Remove from the heat and let cool. Cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

Skim the fat off the top before reheating. Serve over wide noodles like tagliatelle, with Tortellini, or in Lasagne Bolognese.

Prepare:

Brown the meatballs as directed and transfer to the simmering tomato sauce. If the meatballs are large and have not reached 160°F in the center, gently simmer until they are cooked through, about 15 minutes.

Make this quickly in the same skillet you cooked fish in and serve it over the fish, or make it separately to use as a sauce for green vegetables.

Melt in a small skillet over medium-low heat:

Cook slowly until the butter becomes light brown and smells nutty, shaking the pan or stirring occasionally so it cooks evenly. Watch as the butter begins to foam; it can burn easily. When the foaming subsides a bit, swirl the pan. You should see browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Remove the butter from the heat. It can be used as is or season with:

Serve immediately.

Delicious against the light flavor of sautéed fish such as sole, cod, or skate.

Prepare Brown Butter, allowing it to cook until it is dark brown.

Rich and refined, beurre blanc is traditionally served with fish, but is also excellent drizzled on seared scallops; grilled or sautéed chicken or pork chops; Roasted Asparagus; or grilled artichokes. Adding a small amount of cream before adding the butter helps keep the sauce stable.

Combine in a small skillet over medium heat:

Bring to a simmer and simmer, uncovered, until reduced by three-quarters. Stir in:

Remove from the heat and add one piece at a time, whisking constantly, until the sauce is creamy and pale:

Add each piece before the previous one has completely melted, or the sauce will separate. If you need a bit more heat to soften the butter, set the pan briefly over very low heat. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, if desired. Season to taste with:

Use immediately. If there is any delay, try to keep the sauce around 125°F to prevent it from congealing or separating.

Cider: For the wine, substitute 6 tablespoons dry hard cider.

Citrus: Substitute 2 tablespoons lemon, lime, orange, or grapefruit juice for the vinegar and add ½ teaspoon finely grated zest with the shallots.

Herbs: Stir into the finished sauce 1 to 2 tablespoons minced herbs, such as tarragon, fennel fronds, chervil, chives, parsley, or a combination.

For serving with shellfish: you may replace half of the butter with 4 tablespoons Shrimp or Lobster Butter, chilled until solid and cut into 4 pieces (add the plain butter first or the sauce will not thicken).

This salty, tangy, buttery sauce is excellent served with green vegetables like asparagus or as a lily-gilding accompaniment to a perfectly cooked steak or chop.

Whisk together in a medium saucepan:

Bring to a boil, then remove from the heat and whisk in one piece at a time:

Serve immediately.

Flavored butters are a blank slate for all kinds of ingredients. We recommend seasoning them with a heavy hand since they are not intended to be eaten on their own, but rather used as a flavoring for other foods.

Place in a bowl:

Stir in any of the following:

Mix in:

Use immediately or roll, chill, and store as directed, above.

Also called beurre maître d’hôtel, this is delicious over grilled or broiled steak.

Beat together in a medium bowl:

Use immediately or roll, chill, and store as directed, above.

The traditional name for this mixture does not do it justice for most readers. Make no mistake: This is the butter you’re looking for. As the name suggests, many use it for dressing escargot, but it is also good on warm bread, as a spread for cold sandwiches, or atop grilled lamb chops or fish steaks.

Beat together in a medium bowl:

Use immediately or roll, chill, and store as directed.

This flavorful compound butter is a little fussy to make, but it compensates by being incredibly delicious. Serve it with grilled meats or fish, especially salmon.

Have a bowl of ice water ready. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Add to the boiling water and blanch for 30 seconds:

With a spider or slotted spoon transfer the herbs immediately to the ice water to cool. Drain the herbs well, lightly pressing out any excess water. Spread the herbs on half of a kitchen towel, fold the other half over them, and roll up the towel like a jelly-roll, lightly pressing it to blot the herbs dry. Transfer the herbs to a food processor and pulse until very finely chopped. Add to the food processor and pulse until finely chopped:

Add and pulse until very smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed:

With the machine running, add in a thin, steady stream:

Use immediately or roll, chill, and store as directed.

Delicately pink and deliciously flavored. Unlike the butters above, which are generally used as a sauce or condiment, shellfish butter is primarily used as a last-minute addition to sauces to be served with fish or shellfish (sometimes the very same creatures used to make the butter).

Spread on a baking sheet and dry in a 250°F oven for 30 minutes:

When cooled, place the shells in a towel, fold the towel over, and break them up as fine as possible with a mallet or rolling pin. Melt in the top of a double boiler over simmering water:

Add the shells and cook over the simmering water for 10 minutes. Set aside for 20 minutes to allow the flavors to infuse. Pour into a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl; let stand for up to 20 minutes to drain off all the butter. Refrigerate until chilled. Skim off the butter when the mixture has solidified; discard any liquid.

Use immediately, or let the butter soften and roll, chill, and store as directed.

This spicy and tangy butter is excellent with grilled steaks or chops, roasted cauliflower, green peas, or roasted cabbage.

Beat together in a medium bowl until thoroughly combined:

Use immediately or roll, chill, and store as directed.

Heat in a small skillet over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until softened:

Transfer to a small bowl and let cool. Stir in:

Use immediately or roll, chill, and store as directed.

Use for broiled fish, steamed vegetables, or chicken, or to give white or cream sauces a light green color and some added zing.

Have a bowl of ice water ready. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Place in a fine-mesh sieve:

Lower the sieve of shallot and herbs into the water and blanch for 10 seconds. Lift the sieve out of the boiling water and lower it into the ice water. Drain, transfer to a kitchen towel, and pat dry. Pound to a paste in a mortar, or grind to a paste in a small food processor. Gradually blend in:

Use immediately or roll, chill, and store as directed.

Melt over low heat:

Keep warm. Place in a large stainless steel bowl or the top of a double boiler:

Off the heat, beat the yolks with a whisk until light and frothy. Place the bowl or the top of the double boiler over barely simmering water and continue to whisk until the eggs are thickened, 3 to 5 minutes, being careful not to let the eggs get too hot. If needed, remove the bowl or pan and whisk to cool the mixture slightly. Whisking constantly, very slowly add the butter, leaving the white milk solids behind. Whisk in:

If the sauce is too thick, whisk in a few drops of warm water. Serve immediately or cover and keep warm for up to 30 minutes by placing the bowl or pan in warm (not hot) water.

Here, the heat of the warmed butter cooks and thickens the egg. While much easier, the blender method results in a slightly pale and less flavorful sauce. Do not make in a smaller quantity than given here—there will not be enough heat to cook the eggs properly. This may also be made with an immersion blender.

Warm a blender container by filling it with hot water and allowing it to sit for 5 minutes. Pour out the water and dry well. Add to the blender:

Melt in a small saucepan until bubbling:

Remove from the heat. Blend the egg yolks on high for 3 seconds; with the blender running, pour in the butter in a steady stream. By the time all the butter is poured in—about 30 seconds—the sauce should be finished. If not, blend on high about 5 seconds longer. If the sauce is too thick, add a few drops of warm water. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and lemon juice, if necessary. Serve at once or keep warm for up to 30 minutes by immersing the blender container in warm water.

Heavenly on grilled steak and fish. Substituting fresh mint for the tarragon makes a Paloise Sauce, but parsley, basil, thyme, chives, or sage may also be used.

Pick the leaves from:

Chop the leaves and set aside. Place the stems in a small saucepan and add:

Bring to a simmer and simmer, uncovered, until reduced by two-thirds. Discard the tarragon stems and reserve the liquid and shallot mixture. Melt in a small saucepan over low heat:

Keep warm. Place in a large stainless steel bowl or the top of a double boiler:

Off the heat, whisk the egg mixture until light and frothy. Place the bowl or the top of the double boiler over barely simmering water and whisk until the eggs are thickened, 3 to 5 minutes, being careful not to let the eggs get too hot. Remove the bowl or pan from the heat. Whisking constantly, very slowly add the melted butter, leaving the white milk solids behind in the pan. Whisk in the reserved tarragon leaves and the reduced liquid and shallot mixture gradually, to taste. Season to taste with:

If the sauce is too thick, thin it with a few drops of the reserved liquid or warm water. Serve immediately or keep warm for up to 30 minutes by placing the pan or bowl in warm water.

Combine in a small saucepan over low heat and simmer until reduced to about 1 tablespoon:

Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and let cool. Stir the liquid to taste into:

Stir in:

Taste and adjust the seasonings. Serve immediately.

Use a ceramic, glass, or stainless steel bowl (aluminum and copper will react with the acid and affect the color and flavor of the sauce). For easier hand-whisking, place the bowl on a damp kitchen towel to prevent it from rocking or spinning as you work.

Have ready a balloon whisk and a medium bowl or affix the whisk attachment to a stand mixer. Whisk together until smooth and light:

If using a stand mixer, increase the speed to medium-high. Very gradually whisk in:

As the mixture thickens—when about one-third of the oil has been added—whisk in the oil more steadily, making sure each addition is thoroughly blended before adding the next. Should the oil stop being absorbed, stop pouring the oil and whisk vigorously before adding more. Whisk in:

Serve immediately, or refrigerate for up to 1 week.

Place all the ingredients from version I in a narrow jar just wide enough to fit the end of an immersion blender (most immersion blenders come with such a jar—use it if possible). Place the end of the blender into the jar so it touches the bottom. Start the blender on medium speed, keeping it at the bottom of the jar until you can see the mixture form a vortex, thicken, and become opaque. Slowly lift the blender up and pulse it a couple times up and down to make sure all the oil is incorporated.

This mayonnaise differs from the above recipe in that it uses a whole egg and starts off with oil already added to the egg, with lemon juice added later (both of these tweaks help the emulsion form in the blender). Compared to the other methods, this one consistently produces the stiffest texture. You can also make this version in a food processor; use the plastic blade if you have one, as it seems to make a slightly lighter sauce.

Add to a blender:

Cover and blend on high until thoroughly combined. With the blender running, slowly add in a thin, steady stream:

and then:

until thoroughly blended. Slowly add:

and blend until thick. You may have to stop and start the blender occasionally to scrape down the sides.

Whisk any of the following into 1 cup homemade or store-bought mayonnaise:

This rich, tangy French sauce is traditionally made with petit-suisse cheese, but cream cheese is a good substitute. Serve well chilled.

Process in a food processor until smooth and creamy:

With the machine running, add in a slow, steady stream:

Add in a slow, steady stream:

Blend in:

Stop the machine and scrape down the sides. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and chill. The sauce will keep, covered and refrigerated, for 2 weeks.

Stir in before serving, if desired:

A good standby for fried fish. Try replacing the parsley with other herbs, such as tarragon or chives.

Stir to combine in a medium bowl:

You may thin the sauce with:

Especially good with stuffed artichokes, steamed asparagus, or crab; see Crab Louis.

Whisk together in a medium bowl:

This French classic is marvelous with salads, vegetables, cold meats, French Fries, or fried fish and shellfish.

Stir to combine in a medium bowl:

Prepare Rémoulade Sauce, omitting the cornichons, capers, and tarragon. Add 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish, 1 tablespoon minced green onion, 1 tablespoon minced celery, 1 tablespoon minced green bell pepper, 1 tablespoon ketchup, 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, and 1 teaspoon sweet paprika.

This tangy sauce is traditionally served with veal, but we also love it with cold poached chicken, roast pork, or grilled or roasted vegetables.

Combine in a food processor or blender:

Process until smooth, 30 seconds to 1 minute, scraping down the sides as needed. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate. To serve, thinly slice the cold meat or chicken and arrange, overlapping, on a platter. Pour the sauce over and sprinkle with:

Very popular in France, where it is sometimes referred to as beurre de Provence. In some areas of the Mediterranean, egg yolks are not used, which can make for a runnier sauce. Spread aïoli on a sandwich as you would mayonnaise; use as a dipping sauce for crudités; serve with Steamed Mussels I and French Fries; or serve over cold poached salmon, grilled and roasted meats, or cold boiled potatoes.

Mince or mash to a paste:

Place in a bowl and whisk together with:

Very slowly, and whisking constantly, add, as for Mayonnaise I:

Whisk in:

Here the richness of mayonnaise is tempered by the addition of cooked, mashed potato and/or ground nuts. Both versions are excellent as a garnish for soups or served with grilled meats.

This version is good as a sauce or for binding dishes such as crab cakes.

Prepare:

Whisk in:

blending well, but not more than necessary. Season to taste with:

If the sauce is extremely thick, whisk in water until it is the desired consistency.

The addition of ground nuts makes this an excellent dip.

Prepare:

After the sauce has thickened, add:

Rouille is French for “rust,” and this golden red, strongly flavored condiment is a natural with octopus or grilled vegetables, but is most famous for being dolloped on toast to accompany bouillabaisse.

This version is traditionally made with a bit of the saffron-scented broth from Bouillabaisse. You may also make and serve it with Cioppino or another soup.

Process in a food processor or pound together in a bowl or mortar to a smooth paste:

Very gradually whisk in:

Should the oil stop being absorbed, stop pouring the oil and whisk vigorously before adding more. Just before serving, thin the sauce with:

This saffron–red pepper aïoli is the perfect accompaniment to fried shellfish; Grilled Squid, Grilled Marinated Octopus; or chilled crab.

Prepare:

Set aside. Process in a blender or food processor or pound together in a bowl or mortar to a smooth paste:

Gently fold the mixture into the prepared mayonnaise.

Ketchup is perhaps as ubiquitous in modern American cuisine as Sauce Espagnole was in Escoffier’s France: Countless sauces are born of this foundational condiment. This version is quickly assembled out of pantry staples—a boon for those who don’t like to have a ketchup bottle languishing in the refrigerator, taking up precious shelf space (or those looking for a less sugary alternative to store-bought ketchup). For a smoky flavor, substitute smoked paprika or chipotle chile powder for the cayenne pepper. To make a much larger batch of ketchup from fresh tomatoes and peppers, see here.

Combine in a small bowl:

Whisk together thoroughly. Slowly whisk in:

until the sauce is the desired consistency.

Also known as agrodolce, this sticky, tangy sauce is meant to be used in tiny amounts. It perfectly complements the flavors of rich meats like duck, goose, lamb, and venison, or hearty vegetables like roasted winter squash and grilled or roasted mushrooms. Play with different vinegars and sweeteners depending on what you plan to serve this with, and feel free to start the sauce by sautéing some minced shallot or garlic, throw in herb sprigs, or add dried fruits like cherries, currants, or chopped figs.

Stir together in a medium saucepan:

Place over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Cook until the sugar turns a deep amber or, if using brown sugar, honey, or maple syrup, simply bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and carefully stir in:

Return to the heat and reduce, swirling the pan frequently, until syrupy, 3 to 5 minutes.

The Chinese-American takeout classic.

Whisk together in a small bowl:

Combine in a medium saucepan:

Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring frequently. When the sugar is dissolved, stir the cornstarch slurry and add it to the sauce, stirring until combined. Cook until thickened and remove from the heat. Allow to cool. Season to taste with:

This sweet-sour chutney is perfect with Pakoras. This recipe calls for tamarind concentrate or tamarind paste, which makes a thinner chutney than if using tamarind pulp. To use tamarind pulp (brick tamarind) instead, prepare it using the same quantities and method as directed in About Tamarinds before proceeding with the recipe.

Mix together in a small saucepan:

Add:

Simmer until the sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes. Allow the chutney to sit for at least 1 hour before serving to allow the flavors to mellow and meld.

A red currant sauce particularly suited to serving with venison. It is best served cold.

Bring a medium saucepan of water to a rolling boil and add:

Blanch for 3 minutes, then drain. Dry the pan and add the blanched zest back to it along with:

Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer, whisking frequently. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Let cool completely and refrigerate until cold before serving.

This light condiment is a particular delight with hot roast beef, but it is also good with cold meats.

Beat in a medium bowl to stiff peaks:

Gradually, beat in:

Chill for at least 30 and for up to 60 minutes. Stir gently before serving.

A richer sauce perfect for serving with Crudités, slathering on pastrami and corned beef sandwiches, or serving with roasted beets or parsnips.

Stir together thoroughly in a medium bowl:

Add:

This simple sauce is especially good with fried chicken or fish.

Stir together well in a small bowl:

Serve at room temperature. The sauce will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 month.

Traditional with Gravlax, this can also be served with other smoked, grilled, sautéed, or poached fish.

Whisk together in a medium bowl until smooth:

Cover and let stand for 2 hours to allow the flavors to develop. Serve at room temperature or chilled. The sauce will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 2 days.

Delightfully simple, and a marvelous accompaniment for sausages, pork, beef, or fish.

Stir together well in a medium bowl:

Cover and let stand for 30 minutes to allow the flavors to develop.

You may serve this as is as a relish-type condiment. For a creamier sauce, stir in:

Garnish with:

Serve immediately.

This Cuban table sauce is briefly cooked to bring out the full flavor of the garlic. Serve with grilled beef, chicken, pork, or fish, or use as a marinade for any of these. Mojo is best served fresh, but the sauce will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.

Heat in a medium saucepan over medium heat:

Add and cook until fragrant but not browned, 20 to 30 seconds:

Carefully stir in and bring to a boil:

Reduce the heat to simmer gently for 10 minutes. Let cool and serve at room temperature.

A tradition with roasted lamb, this sauce is thin and sprightly—a refreshing change from Mint Jelly.

Stir together in a bowl until the sugar has dissolved:

Stir in:

Let stand for 2 hours. The sauce will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 2 days.

A tangy, spicy Argentinian sauce to serve with grilled or roasted meat.

Whisk together thoroughly in a small bowl:

Stir in:

Cover and let stand for 2 hours to allow the flavors to develop. The sauce will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 2 days.

This classic green sauce—not to be confused with Mexican salsa verde (or tomatillo salsa)—is traditionally served with braised meats, fried calamari, grilled fish, and roasted cauliflower or eggplant. For a thicker texture, add ½ cup dry bread crumbs to the mixture below and puree until smooth and creamy, adding a little water if needed to make a paste.

Combine in a food processor:

Blend to a uniform consistency, but do not process to a puree. Adjust the seasonings. The sauce will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week. Serve at room temperature.

With the lesser amount of chiles, zhug is somewhat like Salsa Verde or Chimichurri: It’s a perky, herbal accompaniment to grilled meats and falafel, a dipping sauce, or a last-minute “enlivener” for soups and braises. With the larger amount of chiles, it’s better to think of zhug as a chunky hot sauce or relish. We like to add ground black cardamom seeds, which lend a subtle smoky, aromatic flavor.

Coarsely chop:

Add to a food processor and pulse a few times until finely chopped. Add and pulse into a chunky paste:

The sauce will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 5 days.

This bright, herb-packed sauce is our preferred condiment for samosas and Pakoras.

Combine in a food processor or blender:

Puree, stopping to scrape down the sides as needed. Cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

This tangy sauce is excellent for vegetables that need perking up, like boiled potatoes or cauliflower, but it also stands up to strongly flavored foods, such as Raddicchio and Treviso.

Whisk together in a medium bowl:

Gradually whisk in:

Stir in:

This sauce is best the day it’s made, but you may refrigerate it for up to 3 days.

This relish goes particularly well with pork. If you wish, you can use 1 ½ cups thawed frozen corn, but be sure to use only good-quality fresh tomatoes.

Shuck and remove the silks from:

Cook in boiling salted water to cover for 1 minute, then drain, and cut off the kernels. Place the corn kernels in a small bowl and add:

Mix together well, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving to let the flavors meld. This relish will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.

Make this fresh, bright-tasting relish when tomatoes are at their prime. Serve it with grilled fish steaks or chicken, or on crostini.

Mix well in a medium bowl:

Let sit for 30 minutes at room temperature for the flavors to meld. Store, refrigerated, for up to 3 days.

Wonderful with roasted meats, and a good alternative (or supplement) to Cranberry Sauce for serving with a Thanksgiving turkey.

Combine in a medium saucepan over low heat:

Cook, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved, then simmer, stirring often, until the mixture has the consistency of marmalade, about 1 ½ hours. Stir in:

Cook, stirring, until blended, about 3 minutes more. Let cool. The marmalade will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 weeks. Serve at room temperature.

A cool companion to fried foods or grilled meat, and a fine dip on its own with pita bread.

Stir together in a small bowl:

Let sit, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes to allow the flavors to meld. Store, refrigerated, for up to 3 days.

Serve this simple sauce with salmon, especially Pan-Fried Salmon Cakes and roasted carrots and beets.

Whisk together in a medium bowl:

Serve immediately or store, refrigerated, for up to 5 days.

Serve this cooling condiment alongside spicy meats, fish, poultry, or vegetarian entrées. For a change, substitute ¾ cup peeled, shredded daikon radish for the cucumber (or use a combination).

Stir together in a small bowl:

Raita is best served fresh, but it can be prepared ahead and refrigerated, covered, for up to 1 day.

Serve this Indian pickle with Dal, rice, or Naan. If desired, the recipe may be halved, but we have never had trouble finding uses for this flavorful condiment.

Have ready:

Heat in a large saucepan over medium heat:

When the oil is hot, add and fry for 30 seconds:

Standing back to avoid the sputtering oil, add:

Add the garlic and serranos and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and:

Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, over medium-low heat until most of the liquid has been cooked off, about 1 ½ hours. You will need to stir more frequently as the mixture reduces to prevent it from sticking to the pot and burning. Remove from the heat, remove the bay leaf, and let cool. Season to taste with:

Store, refrigerated, for up to 1 month.

This family favorite makes a lively dunking sauce for seafood.

Stir together well in a small bowl:

The sauce will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week. Serve at room temperature.

Based on English “brown sauce,” this dark and tangy condiment is best served with nicely charred red meat.

Heat in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until browned, 8 to 10 minutes:

Add and cook, stirring, about 1 minute more:

Stir in:

Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Thin the sauce to the desired consistency with:

Let cool completely. Store refrigerated for up to 6 months.

Classic with oysters on the half shell, this sauce is good with any raw shellfish. Many different types of vinegar can be substituted for the red wine vinegar. Try sherry, vermouth, or Banyuls vinegar, or an infused vinegar.

Mix together in a small bowl:

Serve chilled or at room temperature.

Substitute ¼ cup Champagne and ¼ cup Champagne or white wine vinegar for the red wine vinegar in Mignonette Sauce.

To add flavor and texture to oysters on the half shell, freeze Mignonette Sauce or Champagne Mignonette as for Berry Granita, and scoop small mounds of the ice onto the oysters.

This is a version of one of the dozens of walnut sauces found in the cuisine of Georgia (that is, the country in Eastern Europe between the Black Sea and Caspian Sea). Serve with cucumbers, tomatoes, roasted beets, poached chicken or turkey, or as a dipping sauce for bread. The sauce can be thicker, almost like hummus, or runny, like heavy cream, depending on what you intend to serve it with. You can increase the amount of spices to taste, if desired.

Combine in a food processor and process until finely ground:

Add and pulse to combine:

Thin the sauce to the desired consistency with:

Transfer to a bowl. Serve at room temperature. Store, refrigerated, for up to 1 week.

Serve this sauce with Pot Stickers, Fried Wontons, or Seafood or Pork Shumai.

Bring to a boil in a small saucepan:

Let cool slightly and transfer to a small bowl.

Our friend Jen Bryman makes this flavorful, bright-green sauce in the summer when basil is plentiful. It is thicker than most flavored oils, and even more straightforward than Pistou. As with pesto, you may replace the basil with arugula for a more peppery effect. We love this sauce with asparagus, on salads, dotted on fresh cheeses, and drizzled over pasta dishes.

Combine in a blender:

Blend until smooth. Let sit, refrigerated, for at least 30 minutes before using to allow the flavors to meld. Keep refrigerated for up to 5 days.

To simplify this recipe slightly, you may skip the roasting step and use 1 cup canned whole tomatoes, drained, instead of fresh, ½ cup drained jarred roasted red peppers instead of fresh, and 1 garlic clove, minced, instead of the roasted garlic.

Position an oven rack 4 inches below the heat. Preheat the broiler. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil and place on the baking sheet:

Broil, turning the pepper occasionally, until the tomatoes are blackened in spots and the pepper is well blackened all over, about 15 minutes. The garlic will be done (charred and soft) before the pepper and tomatoes. Transfer the pepper to a bowl and cover with a plate. Let steam until cool enough to handle, then peel off the blackened skin, remove the stem, and scrape out the seeds. Peel the garlic cloves.

Meanwhile, add to a small heatproof bowl:

Cover with boiling water and soak for 15 minutes.

Add to a food processor and pulse until finely chopped:

Drain the soaked chiles well and add them to the food processor along with the bell pepper, tomatoes, garlic, and:

Process into a chunky paste. With the machine running, slowly pour in:

Season to taste with:

Store, refrigerated, for up to 1 week.

This thin and punchy Yucatecan-style hot sauce is the perfect accompaniment to Braised Carnitas, or any grilled or broiled fish, poultry, or meat. We also enjoy it with raw oysters on the half shell or mashed into an avocado. Pan-roasting and steeping the habaneros in citrus juice makes them surprisingly mellow. That said, this is a truly hot sauce, so use carefully.

Place in a medium dry skillet over medium heat:

Cook the onions, garlic, and habaneros, turning occasionally, until blackened on all sides and the garlic is softened. They may not cook at the same rate, so remove them from the skillet as they are done. Peel the garlic and remove the stems from the habaneros. Add them to a blender, along with the green onion bottoms and reserved green tops and:

Blend until smooth. Let stand at least 30 minutes before serving.

Nam prik, which translates as “pepper water,” is a traditional table sauce of Thailand, where there are dozens of variations on the recipe. Some are very thin while others are thick and chunky relishes. They may contain shrimp paste, fried shallots, fish, and even ground pork. Nam prik is served with vegetables, stirred into soups, and used as a sauce for rice, noodles, meat, or fish. The sauce is best if allowed to stand for a day or two, and it keeps well for several weeks in the refrigerator.

Combine in a food processor or a mortar and process or pound to a paste:

Stir in:

Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 day before serving.

Some version of this sauce is served all over Southeast Asia, with the small skewers of meat and chicken known as satay, or with many other dishes from Summer Rolls to grilled meats.

Combine in a medium saucepan:

Whisk in thoroughly:

Cook, stirring occasionally, over low heat until the flavors are well blended, about 15 minutes. Stir into the peanut sauce:

This all-purpose Vietnamese condiment can be used as a dipping sauce for spring rolls or skewers of grilled meat, or to dress Vietnamese bún bowls.

Stir in a small bowl until the sugar has dissolved:

Add:

Let stand for at least 10 minutes before serving to allow the flavors to develop. The sauce will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 2 days if made with lime juice, or for 6 days if made with vinegar.

You will find this condiment on the table at most Thai and Vietnamese restaurants. It is just the thing to add depth, salt, and heat to bowls of Pho Bo and dishes like Thai fried rice noodles (Kuaytiaw Khua Kai).

Combine in a small bowl:

Let sit for at least 30 minutes to give the chiles time to infuse the fish sauce, then use immediately or refrigerate for up to 1 week.

This salty sauce is usually served with ssam (green leafy vegetables, such as lettuce and shiso, wrapped around a filling, often meat). If you prefer a sweeter ssamjang, add honey to taste. The yield of this recipe is small, but remember: A little goes a long way (you can also thin it out with a little water or additional vinegar).

Stir together in a medium bowl:

Taste and adjust the seasonings if needed. Sprinkle on top:

The classic accompaniment to tempura.

Combine in a small saucepan:

Bring to a boil and remove from the heat. Serve warm. If desired, just before serving, stir in:

Specifically for Chicken Katsu, we think of this tangy, salty sauce as a cousin to steak sauce. Serve it with almost any fried food or use it as a glaze for ribs.

Whisk together in a small bowl:

Chile crisp, or Lao Gan Ma, was invented by a woman named Tao Huabi in Guizhou, China, in 1997. We developed this recipe out of necessity: We routinely crave Lao Gan Ma, but its growing popularity in the United States has led to shortages. For an even crispier texture, fry the shallots called for here separately as for Crispy Fried Shallots, and proceed as directed, adding them to the food processor with the other ingredients. Serve this condiment with rice, noodles, dumplings, stir-fries, and soups.

Combine in a large saucepan:

Heat over medium heat until just beginning to simmer, then reduce the heat to maintain a lazy bubble. Cook until the shallots have softened and shrunk and the whole mixture has darkened somewhat and become very fragrant, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool for 10 minutes. Stir in:

Once cool, transfer the mixture to a food processor and pulse until ground into a chunky paste (about 3 long pulses). Transfer to a glass jar or container. Store refrigerated.

Almost any fresh red chile will do, but we have had especially good luck with what are known as “red finger hots.” Red jalapeños or Fresnos will work as well. Though you may be tempted to use red Thai chiles, fight this impulse! They are incredibly difficult to seed and, if used whole, will make the sauce way too spicy.

Wearing gloves, stem, seed, and coarsely chop:

Transfer the chiles to a medium saucepan and add:

Bring the mixture to a boil, simmer for 10 minutes, and remove from the heat. When cool, transfer to a blender or food processor and puree until smooth. Add water or a touch of vinegar if the mixture is too thick; it should be the consistency of ketchup. Season to taste with:

Transfer to a bottle or jar. Store in the refrigerator. The sauce will keep for at least 1 month.

This sauce can be rubbed on fish or shellfish before steaming or served as a condiment with the finished dish.

Mash to a paste with a fork in a small bowl or chop in a food processor:

Stir in or pulse in:

Serve at room temperature. The sauce will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 6 days.

This recipe is easily doubled or tripled, but make only as much as you will use immediately, as it loses its texture and the heat increases on standing. To make the spicy Yucatecan salsa called xni pec, or “dog’s nose,” substitute 2 habaneros for the serranos or jalapeños, and substitute 1 tablespoon lime juice plus 2 tablespoons orange juice for the lime juice. Pico de gallo complements everything from tacos to grilled meat and vegetables.

Combine in a medium bowl:

Stir together. Season to taste with:

Serve immediately.

This intensely fresh, herbal salsa is especially good with fish, chicken, roasted vegetables, and eggs. For a richer salsa, you may roast half of the tomatillos as for Roasted Tomato–Chipotle Salsa, or the peppers and onions as for Table Salsa.

Combine in a food processor or blender and coarsely puree, leaving the mixture a little chunky:

Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in enough cold water to loosen the mixture to a sauce-like consistency. Season to taste with:

Serve immediately.

This is our favorite salsa for everyday use: It is flavorful, convenient, and ready in the time it takes to drink a beer. Because it is made with canned tomatoes, this is the perfect salsa to make when tomatoes are not in season.

Add to a dry, medium heavy skillet over medium heat:

Cook, turning the pieces occasionally, until the contents of the skillet are lightly charred all over, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, drain off about half of the juice from:

Add 2 of the tomatoes to a food processor along with:

When the vegetables are charred, peel the garlic cloves, remove the stems and seeds from the chiles, and cut them into chunks, along with the green onion bottoms. Add the garlic, chiles, and green onion bottoms to the food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Add the rest of the canned tomatoes along with:

Process until well combined but still a little chunky. Adjust seasonings to taste with:

Serve immediately or keep refrigerated for up to 1 week.

Combine in a medium bowl:

Stir together well. This salsa will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.

This smooth avocado sauce can be treated as a dip, similar to Guacamole, or it can be used as a sauce for grilled meats or vegetables.

Combine in a food processor:

Pulse until very finely chopped, scraping down the bowl as needed. With the motor running, add in a thin, steady stream:

Adjust the seasoning to taste with:

The salsa will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.

Tomatoes take on a deeper flavor when roasted. This salsa is particularly good with grilled chicken, fish, or lamb and with tacos or enchiladas.

Prepare a medium-low grill fire, or position an oven rack as close to the heat as possible. Preheat the broiler.

Place on the grill or a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet:

Grill or broil, turning as needed, until the skins are blackened in spots and slightly softened, about 5 minutes on each side on the grill, slightly less time under the broiler. When cool enough to handle, peel and coarsely chop the tomatoes. Put them in a medium bowl and stir in:

Serve immediately or store, refrigerated, for up to 1 week.

We generally aren’t fans of fruit salsa, but we love this one. It avoids being overly sweet and has just enough spice to keep things interesting. It is wonderful with many things, but particularly with grilled or sautéed fish. We highly recommend adding the optional avocado.

Combine in a large bowl:

The salsa will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.

In addition to the variations suggested below, keep in mind that it is worth experimenting with most vinegars and citrus juices in vinaigrettes.

Combine in a medium bowl:

Whisk until blended. Add gradually, whisking constantly after each addition:

If made in advance, cover and refrigerate. Shake well before using.

Whisk any of the following into Vinaigrette.

This tart formula is our favorite for almost any green salad.

Combine in a pint jar with a tight-fitting lid:

Shake vigorously to combine.

Serve over mixed greens or spinach with goat cheese or grilled chicken.

Whisk together in a small bowl:

Add in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly:

Taste and adjust the seasonings.

This dressing is a favorite for salads that combine greens and fruit.

Whisk together in a small bowl until smooth:

Gradually add, whisking constantly:

Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Combine in a blender or food processor:

Blend until smooth.

Combine in a blender and process until thick and smooth:

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place on a doubled piece of foil:

Drizzle with:

Wrap and seal tightly. Place on a baking sheet and roast for 1 hour.

Remove the package from the oven, carefully open, and let cool. When cool enough to handle, squeeze the garlic and shallots from their skins into a small food processor or a blender. Add and process to a puree:

With the machine running, add in a slow, steady stream, processing until smooth:

Taste and adjust the seasonings. Use immediately, or cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days.

This dressing is perfect for cold noodle salads, in chicken salad, or with spicy greens like arugula.

Whisk together in a medium bowl:

Whisk in until the desired consistency is reached:

Tahini, or sesame seed paste, is a staple of Middle Eastern cooking. This dressing goes especially well with Falafel and chickpea salads.

Whisk together in a small bowl:

This sauce is better known as a condiment than a salad dressing. Use it to flavor the yolks for Deviled Eggs, drizzle over a Reuben Sandwich, or serve as a dipping sauce with fried foods.

Whisk together in a small bowl:

Chill before using.

A relative of Russian dressing, Thousand Island is a classic topping for a wedge of iceberg lettuce. Without the hard-boiled egg, it also makes a good “special sauce” for burgers and sandwiches.

Stir together in a small bowl until well blended:

Taste and adjust the seasonings. Use immediately, or cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days.

The original version was created at the Hidden Valley Guest Ranch in Santa Barbara, California, in the 1950s. For a modern, lighter version, substitute plain Greek yogurt for the sour cream or mayonnaise.

Whisk together in a medium bowl until well blended:

Taste and adjust the seasonings. Use immediately, or cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days. The flavor will improve over the course of an hour or so.

Like ranch dressing, this lesser-known classic hails from California. Use with robust greens, such as romaine, drizzle over roasted vegetables, or serve with crudités.

Combine in a medium bowl:

Taste and adjust the seasonings. Use immediately, or cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Whisk together in a bowl until the salt dissolves:

Stir in:

Use the same day.

This creamy bright-green dressing pairs well with bitter or hearty greens like radicchio or kale.

Combine in a blender:

Blend until smooth. With the blender running, add in a slow, steady stream:

Use immediately, or cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Combine in a blender:

Blend until smooth. If the dressing is too thick, add a little more buttermilk to reach the desired consistency. Transfer to a bowl and stir in:

Season to taste with:

Use immediately, or refrigerate for up to 5 days.

Serve with a Greek-style salad or pasta salad, over sliced tomatoes, or as a dip for crudités.

Combine in a blender:

Blend until smooth. With the machine running, add in a slow, steady stream, blending until smooth:

If the dressing is too thick, add a little more milk as needed. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Use immediately, or cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days.

Whisk together in a small bowl:

Add in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly:

Use immediately, or refrigerate for up to 5 days.

Whisk together in a small bowl:

Gradually whisk in until well blended:

Use immediately, or refrigerate for up to 5 days.

Called “Half-and-Half Dressing” in previous editions of Joy, this dressing is a fine compromise between creamy and tangy and just happens to be an excellent substitute for the dressing in Caesar Salad.

Whisk to combine in a medium bowl:

Use immediately, or refrigerate for up to 5 days.

This rich, savory caramel may be used as a last-minute glaze for grilled skewers of meat, tofu, and poultry or added in small amounts to sauces and braised dishes for extra depth of flavor.

Combine in a small saucepan:

Set over medium heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil (do not stir once the mixture is boiling). Simmer until the mixture is amber colored, or has reached 375°F on a thermometer. Take the pan off the heat and, being careful of splatters, add:

After the mixture has stopped foaming vigorously, stir until it is smooth. Once cool, skim off any remaining foam. Use immediately, or store refrigerated in a covered container for up to 6 months.

An umami-rich glaze for salmon, duck breast, pork loin, or chicken. For Miso Glaze, omit the soy sauce and substitute ¼ cup red or white miso for the hoisin sauce and ¼ cup sake for the wine.

Whisk to combine in a small bowl:

For baked ham, grilled or roasted poultry, or grilled sausages.

Mix together in a bowl with your fingers, breaking up any lumps:

Slowly stir in until the paste is of spreading consistency:

Best used for baked ham.

Combine in a small saucepan over medium-low heat:

Briefly heat, stirring occasionally, to dissolve the sugar and make of spreading consistency.

For baked ham or poultry.

Briefly heat if necessary to make of spreading consistency:

If desired, stir in:

A sweet glaze for baked ham.

Stir together in a medium saucepan over low heat until the sugar is dissolved:

A boozy glaze for baked ham, roast chicken, grilled salmon, or pork chops.

Combine in a small saucepan:

Simmer over medium heat until the mixture has reduced by half and coats the back of a spoon, about 15 minutes. Remove the orange zest and bay leaf before using.

Stir together in a small bowl:

Combine in a medium saucepan:

Cook over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until the sugar is dissolved and the glaze is smooth, about 10 minutes.

Best with chicken, vegetables, and stronger fish. Do not marinate fish for more than 30 minutes or meats for longer than 4 hours.

Whisk together in a small bowl:

Cooking the marinade evaporates much of the wine’s alcohol, which keeps the mixture from prematurely “cooking” meats. Red wine is excellent for red meat or game; white wine is better for fish, pork, and poultry.

Combine in a medium saucepan and simmer over medium-low heat for 5 minutes:

Let cool before using. The marinade will keep, covered and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.

In Indian cooking, chicken and lamb are marinated in this aromatic mixture of yogurt and spices before they are cooked in the extremely high heat of a tandoor. The marinade is often tinted with a natural dye, which gives tandoori chicken its characteristic orange-yellow color.

Our friend Kusuma Rao insists that coating the meat with salt, citrus, and spices first is crucial: It changes the texture of the meat, improves the color, and helps the spices adhere better. If you would rather skip this step, use version II.

Place the meat to be marinated in a bowl and sprinkle evenly with: