Combine in a large bowl and mix well:

Have ready:

Place a wonton wrapper on a work surface and place 1 tablespoon of the filling in the center. Pick the wrapper up so that it partially surrounds the filling, pleating the edges of the wrapper so that it resembles a cup, as shown; the filling should be exposed at the top and level with the wrapper. Tap the dumpling against the work surface to flatten the bottom. Place on a lightly oiled plate and repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling. Place half the dumplings, without touching each other, in an oiled steamer basket. Bring 1 or 2 inches of water to a boil in a large pot, put the basket on top, cover, and steam until the dumplings are cooked through, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a plate and keep warm. Cook the remaining dumplings in the same way. Serve hot with:

An especially good rendition of a timeless classic. The sauce can be made ahead and combined with the just-cooked macaroni before baking, or the entire casserole can be assembled a day in advance.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a deep 8- or 9-inch square baking dish. Prepare:

Stir in:

Simmer gently, stirring often, for 15 minutes. Have ready:

Remove the sauce from the heat, discard the bay leaf, and stir in two-thirds of the cheese. Reserve the rest. Season to taste with:

Meanwhile, cook in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender but firm:

Drain the pasta and return it to the hot pot. Stir in the sauce. Pour the mixture into the prepared baking dish and sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Sprinkle over the top:

Bake until the bread crumbs are lightly browned, about 30 minutes. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving.

Prepare Macaroni and Cheese I or II, stirring in at the end 1 cup kimchi, store-bought or homemade, drained well and chopped. Garnish with chopped green onion.

Despite its name, this fried pasta cake has no eggs. Patience is rewarded when browning the pasta—don’t rush it or the seasonings will burn before the cake turns golden. If you have leftover pasta, this is a superb way to use it.

Have ready:

Heat in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat until hot:

Add and cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute:

Add the cooked pasta and toss with the olive mixture. Reduce the heat to medium-low and allow the pasta to brown, undisturbed, until golden, about 15 minutes. Flip the pasta cake and cook on the second side until browned, about 15 minutes more. Serve cut into wedges, garnished with:

In the Midwest, this is known as Johnny Marzetti when it is made with meat sauce and topped with 1 cup shredded Cheddar or mozzarella (4 ounces).

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter an 8- to 9-inch square baking dish. Heat in a saucepan:

Toss the sauce with:

Season to taste with:

Pour the mixture into the prepared baking dish. Sprinkle with:

Dot with:

Bake until the top is browned, about 30 minutes.

Please read About Making Fresh Pasta. Using the larger number of egg yolks will yield a richer pasta. Or, if you have a bunch of egg whites to use up, substitute ½ cup egg whites for the eggs below.

If making by hand, mound on a clean counter:

Make a well in the center and add to the well:

Beat the eggs lightly with a fork, drawing in some flour as you go, until the eggs are mixed and slightly thickened. Using the fingertips of one hand, gradually incorporate the flour into the eggs and blend everything into a smooth, not too stiff dough. If the dough feels too dry and crumbly, add a little water as needed. If it is too sticky, add a little more flour. Use a dough scraper to lift and turn the dough if it sticks. Knead the dough for about 10 minutes, or until smooth and pliable.

If using a food processor, combine all the ingredients and pulse until a smooth dough forms, about 1 minute. Remove from the processor and knead for 5 minutes as directed above.

If using a stand mixer, affix the dough hook and mix the ingredients on low speed until they come together into a dough. Increase to medium speed and knead for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the mixer and knead for 5 minutes as directed above.

Divide the dough into 4 pieces and wrap the pieces loosely in plastic wrap or cover with an inverted bowl. Let the dough rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before rolling it out. Roll out and cut as desired, above.

Our preferred dough for lasagna and wide ribbon pasta. Do not roll it to the thinnest setting of a pasta machine, as the semolina flour is somewhat coarse and the dough tends to tear if rolled too thin. Prepare Fresh Pasta Dough, substituting 1 cup semolina flour for the same amount of all-purpose flour.

Prepare Fresh Pasta Dough, substituting 1 cup whole wheat flour for the same amount of all-purpose flour. This dough may need a little more liquid; if it seems dry and crumbly, add 1 to 2 teaspoons water and knead until blended and smooth.

Blanch 10 ounces fresh spinach, trimmed and washed, or frozen spinach leaves. Drain, transfer to a kitchen towel, and squeeze as much moisture out of the spinach as possible. Very finely mince the spinach. You should have about ½ cup (a little more or less is fine). Prepare Fresh Pasta Dough, adding the spinach to the flour with the eggs.

Have ready ¼ cup minced strong herbs (sage, rosemary, thyme, oregano, or marjoram) or ½ cup minced mild herbs (basil, chives, parsley, or green onions). Prepare Fresh Pasta Dough, adding the herbs to the flour with the eggs.

An all-purpose German-style noodle.

If making by hand, mix together in a large bowl or on the counter, then shape into a mound:

Make a well in the center of the flour. Lightly beat together and pour into the well:

Beat the eggs with a fork, drawing in some flour as you do so, until they are slightly thickened. Using the fingertips of one hand, gradually incorporate the flour and blend everything into a smooth, not too stiff dough, adding as needed:

If making in a food processor, combine all the ingredients and process just long enough to blend, 15 to 20 seconds, being careful not to overmix the dough. Once the dough has come together, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and knead to form a soft dough, about 5 minutes, adding more flour if necessary to keep the dough from sticking.

If using a stand mixer, affix the dough hook and mix the ingredients on low speed until they come together into a dough. Increase to medium speed and knead for 2 to 3 minutes or until smooth.

Divide the dough into 4 pieces and wrap the pieces loosely in plastic or cover them with an inverted bowl. If you have time, let the dough rest at least 30 minutes before rolling it out.

Roll out and cut the dough into fine threads, about ⅛ inch wide, or thick ribbons, about ½ inch wide, then cut into 2-inch pieces.

Bring to a rolling boil in a large pot:

Drop in:

Return to a boil and cook, stirring frequently, until tender but still firm. Start testing fresh pasta and very thin shapes after about 30 seconds, dried strand pasta after 4 minutes, and macaroni and other short, tubular shapes after 8 minutes. Reserve a cupful of the pasta water and drain the pasta in a large colander. (Rinse the pasta if it is to be used cold.) Quickly transfer to a serving bowl or the empty pot and toss with a sauce (add some of the pasta water if needed).

I. Also known as pasta in bianco or fettuccine al burro. To make it cacio e pepe, use Romano cheese and a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper.

Cook in a large pot of boiling salted water:

Reserve ½ cup of the pasta water. Drain the pasta, transfer to a serving bowl or back to the pasta cooking pot, and toss with the pasta water and:

II. Fettuccine Alfredo

Cook the pasta as for I. While the pasta is cooking, melt in a large skillet over medium heat:

Drain the pasta and add it to the skillet along with:

Toss over low heat until the pasta is well coated.

Prepare Fettuccine Alfredo, reducing the butter to 1 tablespoon. Melt the butter in a skillet and cook 4 ounces prosciutto, chopped, until crisp. Add the cream to the skillet and bring to a simmer. Stir in 1 cup fresh or frozen peas and cook 2 minutes. Stir in the pasta, Parmesan, salt, and pepper.

Cook in a large pot of boiling salted water:

Meanwhile, cook in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned:

If desired, deglaze the pan with:

Scrape up any browned bits. Set the skillet aside. Beat together in a small bowl:

Reserve ½ cup of the pasta water. Drain the pasta and return it to the hot pot off the heat. Immediately add the hot bacon and fat and the cheese mixture, stirring to coat thoroughly; the heat of the pasta will cook the eggs. Add the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce. Taste and add more salt and pepper, if desired.

A simple sauce of olive oil and garlic is one of the purest ways of enjoying good pasta.

Cook in a large pot of boiling salted water:

Meanwhile, heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 2 minutes:

Discard the chile pepper, if used. Reserve ½ cup of the pasta water. Drain the spaghetti, add the hot pasta to the skillet along with the pasta water, and toss to combine. Season to taste with:

I. Very creamy, very cheesy.

Cook in a large pot of boiling salted water:

Drain and return to the pot. Add:

Stir until well blended. Add and stir well:

Set the pot over low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce is smooth and the pasta is steaming, about 10 minutes. The sauce should thicken noticeably. Increase the heat slightly if the sauce is still soupy after 5 minutes, but watch it very carefully. Do not overheat, or the sauce will curdle.

II. Prepare Baked Macaroni and Cheese, but do not preheat the oven or grease a baking dish. Stir all the cheese into the sauce at once. After the pasta is cooked, stir it into the sauce and serve without baking; sprinkle the bread crumbs on top, if desired.

The optional ingredients below are just the beginning. Fresh chorizo (crumbled and browned), Sautéed Onions, Roasted Garlic, blue cheese, or Mushroom Ragout would also be quite good.

Cook in a large pot of boiling salted water:

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Grease two 9-inch square baking pans. Have ready:

Mix together half of the cheese and 1 cup of the crumbs in a bowl with:

Set the bread crumb mixture aside. Drain the pasta, return it to the pasta cooking pot, and mix with:

Stir in the remaining cheese and bread crumbs. Divide the mixture between the prepared baking pans. Cover with the reserved bread crumb mixture. Bake until golden brown, about 25 minutes.

Cook in a large pot of boiling salted water:

Meanwhile, rub a warmed serving bowl with:

Combine in the bowl:

Reserve ½ cup of the pasta water. Drain the pasta, add to the bowl, and toss with the herb mixture and reserved pasta water until the cheese is melted and forms a sauce with the oil and herbs.

Any seasonal vegetables can be substituted for the ones used below—just make sure to cut them about the same size. Try sugar snap peas, cooked baby artichokes, green beans, green onions, zucchini, or fava beans.

Bring to a rolling boil in a large pot:

Add and cook for 1 minute:

Scoop out the vegetables with a slotted spoon, transfer to a colander, and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking. Keep the cooking water warm.

Heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes:

Add the blanched asparagus and broccoli along with:

Cook, stirring, until the vegetables are tender. Meanwhile, return the vegetable cooking water to a boil. Drop in and cook until tender but firm:

While the pasta is cooking, stir into the skillet with the vegetables and simmer gently until slightly reduced:

Drain the pasta and add it to the sauce along with:

Toss to coat over low heat. Serve hot.

Prepare, using eggplant slices:

Meanwhile, heat in a large skillet over medium heat until hot:

Add and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute:

Stir in, bring to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 10 minutes:

Stir in:

Cook in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender but firm:

Reserve ½ cup of the pasta water. Drain the pasta and toss in a warmed serving bowl with the tomato sauce and pasta water. Add:

Toss again. Coarsely chop the eggplant and serve on top of the pasta.

If you are not usually disposed to eating sardines, consider this a “gateway sardine dish.”

Combine in a small bowl and set aside:

Heat in a medium skillet over medium heat until hot:

Add and cook, stirring, until well browned:

Transfer the crumbs to a plate and set aside. Cook in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender but firm:

Reserve ½ cup of the pasta water. Drain the pasta and set aside. Return the empty pasta pot to the heat and add:

Add and cook, stirring, until softened, about 8 minutes:

Stir in and cook until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute:

Add the steeped saffron liquid to the pot and cook until reduced by half. Add:

Add the pasta and reserved pasta water, tossing with tongs to combine. Cook until the ingredients have melded and everything is heated through. Serve topped with the bread crumbs and:

A recent “discovery” that has deep roots in Italian home kitchens, this dish flies in the face of the conventional wisdom that pasta must be cooked in a large quantity of water. For a heartier version, brown 8 ounces crumbled Italian sausage, store-bought or homemade, then transfer to a plate and use 3 tablespoons of the rendered fat (add olive oil if needed) to cook the onions and garlic. Proceed as directed, adding the sausage back in with the basil and cheese.

Warm in a large, deep skillet over medium heat until hot:

Add and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes:

Add and cook 1 minute more:

Stir in:

Allow the tomato paste to brown slightly on the bottom of the skillet, then add:

Scrape any browned bits off the bottom of the skillet. Add:

Bring to a boil and add:

Boil the pasta, stirring occasionally, until tender, 7 to 10 minutes depending on the pasta shape. If the liquid has evaporated before the pasta is tender, add more liquid and continue cooking. Remove from the heat and stir in:

Use spinach fettuccine for an especially attractive dish.

Bring to a rolling boil in a large pot:

Add and cook until tender but firm, 1 to 4 minutes, depending on their thickness:

Scoop out the asparagus with a slotted spoon, transfer to a colander, and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking. Add to the boiling water and cook until tender but firm:

Meanwhile, melt in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add the asparagus and cook, stirring, just to coat with butter, about 1 minute. Stir in and heat through:

Drain the pasta and add it to the skillet along with:

Toss to combine and serve hot.

For red clam sauce, add the optional tomatoes. To use canned clams, add four 6 ½-ounce cans chopped or whole clams with their juices to the cooked pasta.

Heat in a large pot over medium-high heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until the onion softens, 3 to 5 minutes:

Increase the heat to high and add:

Cover the pot and cook until the clams open. Pour the clams and broth into a large bowl and let cool slightly. Working over the bowl to catch the juices, shuck the clams; if the clams are sandy, rinse them in the broth as you go. Put the clams in a small bowl, strain the broth, and set aside.

Heat in a large skillet:

Add and cook, stirring, for a few minutes:

Add the broth and simmer until reduced to about 1 cup. Meanwhile, cook in a large pot of boiling salted water:

Stir the clams and any liquid into the skillet and stir in:

Drain the pasta and add to the sauce, tossing to coat. Season to taste with:

Heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes:

Add and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute:

Stir in:

Simmer briskly for 10 minutes. Stir in and heat through:

Meanwhile, cook in a large pot of boiling salted water:

Stir into the sauce:

Drain the pasta and add to the sauce. If desired, add:

Toss well to coat the pasta with the sauce.

Cook in a large pot of boiling salted water:

Meanwhile, heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until barely browned:

Increase the heat to high and add:

Cook, stirring, until the greens are wilted. Reserve ½ cup of the pasta water. Drain the pasta and toss it with the greens, adding:

and enough of the reserved pasta water to make a cohesive sauce.

This version of pasta and beans is more a thick stew than a soup. If you prefer it thinner, add more stock or broth, or even water. If desired, add a Parmesan rind along with the stock.

Heat in a large saucepan over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until the onion is golden brown, about 8 minutes:

Stir in:

Cook for 1 minute, then add:

Partially mash the beans with the back of a spoon. Add:

Bring to a simmer, partially cover, reduce the heat, and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in:

Cook until the pasta is tender. Thin the sauce, if needed, with additional stock, broth, or water. Season to taste with:

Just before serving, stir in:

Ladle into bowls and serve with additional grated cheese.

Heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add:

Cook, breaking up the meat with a spoon, until nicely browned, about 8 minutes. Stir in and cook for 1 minute:

Stir in:

Cover and cook just until tender, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with:

Meanwhile, cook in a large pot of boiling salted water:

Reserve ½ cup of the pasta water. Drain the pasta, add to the skillet along with the pasta water, and toss over low heat. Serve sprinkled with:

Similar to paella, but made with short, toasted noodles instead of rice. This version is a simple one, but you can dress it up by adding chorizo, a variety of fish and shellfish, chicken thighs, or even rabbit. Flavorful, homemade stock will make this dish truly excellent. To break pasta into small pieces without making a mess, hold them inside a paper bag as you break them apart.

Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Heat in a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring occasionally, until toasted and deep brown:

Transfer the pasta to the lined baking sheet. Return the pan to the heat and add:

When hot, add and cook, stirring, until softened:

Add and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute:

Stir in the toasted noodles along with:

Bring to a simmer and cook undisturbed and uncovered until most of the stock is absorbed by the noodles, 10 to 15 minutes. Season to taste with:

If all the liquid has been absorbed, add a splash of stock or water to the pan. Place on top of the pasta:

Cover the pan, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook until the shrimp are cooked through or the mussels or clams have opened, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve with:

Cook in a large pot of boiling salted water:

Drain and return to the pot. Add:

Toss to coat.

Prepare Buttered Egg Noodles, and add any of the following, alone or in combination:

Or serve buttered egg noodles with:

File this simple, buttery Polish dish under comfort food. The version below is vegetarian, but slices of pan-fried kielbasa or even crumbled cooked bacon may be stirred in. If adding bacon, use the bacon grease instead of butter to cook the onion.

Melt in a Dutch oven over medium heat:

Add:

Cook, stirring, until softened and beginning to brown, about 20 minutes. Reduce the heat if the onion begins to get too dark. Add:

When the butter is melted, add:

Cover and let steam for 5 minutes to wilt the cabbage. Remove the lid and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is very soft and starting to brown, about 15 minutes more. While the cabbage cooks, cook until tender in a large pot of boiling salted water:

Drain and add to the cabbage mixture, tossing to combine. Season liberally with:

Fresh Chinese egg noodles are best in this dish, but any spaghetti-like noodle will work in a pinch. Almost any combination of meat and vegetables can be added. If desired, use leftover meat. Simply slice it and add at the very end, cooking just long enough to reheat it.

Have ready one of the following:

Stir together in a small bowl:

Cook in a large pot of boiling unsalted water just until tender:

Drain, rinse under cold running water, then drain again. Heat a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, pour in:

Swirl the oil in the pan until shimmering but not smoking. Add the meat, shellfish, or tofu and stir-fry, cooking just until opaque or, for tofu or pork belly, lightly crisped. Add to the pan:

Stir-fry until the vegetables are softened, about 2 minutes. Pour the stock mixture down the side of the pan, stir, and cook 1 minute. Add the noodles, and toss to combine and heat through. If desired, add and cook for about 30 seconds:

Serve hot.

Prepare Lo Mein using a large nonstick skillet or well-seasoned wok. After cooking the meat or tofu and vegetables, but before adding the stock mixture, transfer them to a plate and set aside. Add 2 tablespoons vegetable oil to the pan and, when hot, add the cooked noodles. Cook without stirring until they begin to crisp and brown slightly, about 4 minutes. Add the stock mixture and use a spatula to loosen any sticking noodles and toss them with the sauce. Return the meat or tofu and vegetables to the pan and toss to combine.

For Yakisoba, substitute dried yakisoba or ramen noodles and, if desired, garnish with (ground nori seaweed [aonori]) and (beni shoga or pickled ginger).

Broad, pan-fried rice noodles are typical noodle-house fare.

Soak in hot water to cover until softened, about 10 minutes:

Stir together well in a medium bowl:

Very thinly slice across the grain:

Toss the meat in the soy sauce mixture and marinate for 15 minutes. Whisk together in a small bowl:

Set aside. Drain the noodles well. Heat a wok or large skillet over high heat. When hot, pour in:

Swirl the oil around the pan until very hot but not smoking. Add the noodles and stir and toss occasionally until some surfaces brown slightly. Transfer to a plate and wipe out the pan. Heat the pan again until hot. Pour in:

Swirl the oil around the pan until very hot but not smoking. Add the beef and stir-fry, flipping it in the oil to separate the slices, about 20 seconds. Transfer to the plate with the noodles. Heat the pan again until hot. Pour in:

Swirl the oil around the pan until very hot but not smoking. Add and stir briefly:

Add and toss for 1 minute:

Return the beef and noodles to the pan and toss to mix thoroughly. Stir in the stock-cornstarch mixture, stirring until the sauce is thickened and the noodles are glazed. Transfer to a serving dish.

These noodles are perfect party or potluck fare: They can be made ahead, hold well, and are best served at room temperature. Chinese sesame paste is ideal for this recipe, but tahini is easier to find and works well.

Whisk together thoroughly in a large bowl:

Set aside. Cook in a large pot of boiling unsalted water until tender:

Drain in a colander and rinse under cold water until cool. Drain again and add to the bowl of sauce along with:

Toss everything together. Season to taste with more soy sauce and garnish with:

Cook in a large pot of boiling unsalted water until tender:

Drain the noodles, rinse under cold water, and drain again. Set aside. Stir together in a small bowl:

Set aside. Heat a wok or large skillet over medium heat. When hot, add:

Swirl the oil around in the pan until it shimmers. Add and stir-fry until the garlic browns slightly:

Add and cook, breaking up the meat, until no longer pink but not browned:

Drain any excess fat. Stir in the sauce and cook for 2 minutes. Transfer the noodles to a serving plate and pour the pork mixture over them. Garnish with:

Use to fill ravioli, tortellini, or cannelloni. Serve with a tomato sauce or Roasted Red Pepper Sauce.

Heat in a medium skillet over medium-high heat:

When the butter or oil is hot, add:

Cook, stirring often and breaking up the ground meat, until the mixture is browned and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Stir in:

Bring to a boil, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the skillet. Remove from the heat and let cool. Scrape the meat mixture into a food processor along with:

Process until finely chopped and well blended. Taste and adjust the seasonings. The filling can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days.

Superlative comfort food from northern Thailand. Tender egg noodles and fall-apart chicken lurk in the coconut-curry broth; the optional crispy fried noodles add crunch. Add more or less curry paste depending on your tolerance for spice and the heat level of the curry paste you have on hand. Pickled mustard greens are an optional garnish here, but they add a welcome, tangy complexity to the rich broth. Made from a chunky, thick-leafed variety of mustard, these pickles are available at most Asian markets, either in small cans or plastic pouches (purchase the sour or “acrid” variety).

In a large a pot of boiling unsalted water, cook until just tender:

Drain, rinse, and drain again. Set aside. Heat in a large skillet or saucepan over medium heat:

Add and fry, stirring, until fragrant and slightly darkened:

Add:

Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the chicken is cooked through and tender, about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, if you wish to have a crispy topping for the soup, remove a handful of the cooked noodles and divide the rest among serving bowls. Heat in a small, deep saucepan to 350°F:

Thoroughly dry the handful of noodles and shape into four “nests.” Fry one at a time, turning once, until crispy and golden, about 2 minutes. Drain the nests on a plate lined with paper towels. When the chicken is done, divide it among the bowls. Taste the broth and add:

Top the noodles with the broth and fried noodles, if using. Serve with:

To double this recipe, use two pans, as the ingredients will crowd the pan. Tamarind paste is available in tubs, bottles, or sometimes squeeze tubes at most Asian grocery stores. If you can only find tamarind paste in a block with seeds or need to use a substitute, see About Tamarinds.

Soak in hot water to cover until softened, about 30 minutes:

Meanwhile, stir together in a small bowl:

Heat a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat until hot. If desired, cook until toasted and crispy:

Remove the shrimp, coarsely chop, and set aside. Add to the hot pan:

Swirl the oil to coat the pan, then add to the pan and cook, stirring vigorously, until set:

Transfer to a plate. Heat the pan until hot again and add:

Swirl until very hot but not smoking. Add and cook, stirring constantly, until lightly browned:

Transfer the tofu to the plate with the eggs. Add to the pan and cook until pink and cooked through, about 2 minutes:

Add the toasted dried shrimp, if using. Drain the noodles well, add to the pan, and toss to coat in the oil. Add the fish sauce mixture and stir well. Return the eggs and tofu to the pan along with:

Toss with the noodles and cook 2 minutes. Serve with:

As with pad Thai, if you wish to make this for more people, use two pans to avoid crowding. If desired, substitute 12 ounces fresh rice noodles (called sen yai or chow fun noodles). You do not need to soak or boil fresh noodles.

Soak in warm water for 30 minutes:

Drain well. Bring a pot of water to a boil, add the noodles, and cook for 1 minute. Drain well and rinse under cold water. Whisk together in a small bowl and set aside:

Heat in a wok or a large skillet over medium-high heat:

Add to the pan and cook, stirring frequently:

When cooked through, about 2 minutes, transfer to a plate and set aside. Add the noodles to the pan and allow to cook, undisturbed, for 2 minutes. Add the egg mixture. When the noodles start to brown, flip them. Return the chicken to the pan along with:

With a spatula, break up the noodles and toss everything together. Serve immediately on:

With:

Simplicity itself—freshly cooked noodles in a flavorful broth garnished with green onions and shichimi togarashi.

Bring to a simmer in a large pot over medium heat:

Cook in a large pot of boiling unsalted water until tender:

Drain the noodles and divide among individual soup bowls. If desired, add to each bowl:

Sprinkle with:

Ladle 1 ½ to 2 cups seasoned broth into each bowl. Sprinkle over to taste:

A favorite of Marion Becker’s. Farina is often sold under the name “cream of wheat.” Though usually cooked and served in soup, these dumplings may be simmered in stock, broth, or water, then served with gravy. Or they may be drained after cooking, placed in a greased baking dish, and covered with Tomato Sauce. Sprinkle the top with ¼ cup grated Parmesan, dot it with 1 tablespoon butter, and bake in a 350°F oven for about 15 minutes.

Bring to a boil in a medium saucepan:

Add, stir, and simmer until thick, about 5 minutes:

Remove from the heat and beat in vigorously one at a time:

The heat of the mixture will thicken and cook the eggs. Moisten your hands with cool water. Shape the dough a generous teaspoon at a time into small balls and drop into a simmering stock, broth, or stew. Cook, covered, about 2 minutes. Depending on the size of your pot, you may need to cook them in batches. Serve at once.

Bring to a low simmer in a large saucepan over medium heat:

In a large pot of boiling unsalted water, cook until tender:

Divide the noodles among bowls and pour the seasoned stock over them. Top with any of the following:

Prepare Shoyu Ramen, substituting ½ cup red miso for the soy sauce, reducing the mirin to ¼ cup, and adding 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil.

This is the classic way to eat buckwheat noodles—chilled but accompanied by hot and spicy condiments, creating an appealing contrast. If desired, serve with tempura-battered fried shrimp or vegetables.

Bring to a gentle boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat:

Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Using scissors, cut into fine shreds:

Arrange on a plate:

In a large pot of boiling unsalted water, cook until nearly tender:

Drain in a colander and rinse under cold water until cool, swishing the noodles with your hand to rinse well. Divide the noodles among 4 bowls. Sprinkle each serving with nori shreds. Divide the dipping sauce into 4 little bowls and place one beside each serving. Place the plate with wasabi on it within easy reach. To eat, add a little green onion, radish, and wasabi to the dipping sauce, and dip each bite of noodles in the sauce.

Traditionally, japchae is served as a side dish, family-style, at large gatherings, but it makes a lovely vegetarian main dish as well. Many thanks to our friend Yeojin Park for this recipe.

Heat in a large skillet over medium-high heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until just tender, about 5 minutes:

Transfer the onions to a large bowl. Add to the skillet:

Cook until softened, about 5 minutes. If needed, add a little more oil to the skillet. Transfer the mushrooms to the bowl with the onions. Add to the skillet:

Cook, stirring, until barely tender, about 4 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the other vegetables. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add:

Blanch for 1 minute, then use a slotted spoon or spider to transfer the spinach to a colander to drain. When cool enough to handle, press excess moisture out of the spinach and transfer to the bowl with the other vegetables.

Add to the boiling water:

Cover the pot, remove from the heat, and let the noodles steep until tender, 7 to 8 minutes. Drain well, shaking the noodles in the colander to remove excess water. Transfer the noodles to the bowl with the vegetables. Add:

Toss everything together and taste, adding more soy sauce or sesame oil if needed. Before serving, garnish with:

Grilled, broiled, and seared meat is excellent in this dish, especially Grilled Vietnamese-Style Pork, Beef Kebabs, Salt-and-Pepper Shrimp, Crispy Pan-Fried Tofu, or Caramelized Tamarind Tempeh. Or simply marinate the desired protein in Vietnamese-Style Marinade, then bake, sauté, or grill.

Prepare and set aside:

Soak in warm water for 30 minutes or until tender:

Drain well and divide among 4 bowls. Top the noodles with:

Arrange on top of the vegetables:

Serve with the nuoc cham to spoon over the bowls and any of the following garnishes:

Whisk together in a bowl:

Bring just to a simmer in a small saucepan:

Add to the dry ingredients. Stir with a fork or briefly knead until the mixture comes together. If desired, mix in:

Gently drop spoonfuls of the batter on top of a simmering stock, broth, or stew. The dumplings should barely touch. Cover them and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Depending on the size of your pot, you may need to cook them in batches. Serve at once.

We believe that dumplings reached their peak in a small Kentucky town when we were served chicken with dumplings—the latter light as thistledown. “Oh, yes,” said the hotel proprietress wearily, “they are always like that when our cook is drunk.”

Combine in a bowl:

Bring to a simmer in a small saucepan:

Pour the milk mixture over the flour mixture and mix together until cool. Add:

Knead the yolks into the dough until combined. Gently drop spoonfuls of the batter into a simmering stock, broth, or stew. Simmer the dumplings for about 15 minutes. Depending on the size of your pot, you may need to cook them in batches. Serve at once.

Beat with a handheld electric mixer in a medium bowl until smooth:

Beat in:

Stir in:

Drop the batter from a teaspoon into a simmering stock, broth, or stew. Cover and simmer about 5 minutes. Depending on the size of your pot, you may need to cook them in batches. Serve at once.

These are light and tender, especially good with a roast and gravy. They are traditional with Sauerbraten. Some cooks like to put a tiny sprig of parsley in the center of each dumpling.

Place in a large pot:

Add water to cover, bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and push through a potato ricer or force through a sieve with the back of a spoon onto a baking sheet. Allow the potatoes to cool until just barely warm. Stir in, still on the baking sheet:

Stir with a fork just until the ingredients are blended and fluffy. Gently shape into 1-inch balls. Bring to a simmer in a medium saucepan:

Working in batches if necessary, drop the dumplings into the liquid and simmer gently for about 10 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a warmed serving dish. Stir together in a bowl:

Sprinkle the crumbs over the dumplings and serve.

I. TRADITIONAL

About 200 gnocchi; 18 first-course or 10 main-course servings

It is traditional to cook and sauce potato gnocchi like pasta and eat them as a first course or one-dish meal. Once cooked through, gnocchi are also excellent sautéed in butter and garlic, dressed with Parmesan, black pepper or red pepper flakes, and chopped fresh herbs.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Scrub well:

Prick each potato in a dozen places with a fork. Bake directly on an oven rack until easily pierced with a fork, about 1 hour. While the potatoes are still hot, split them lengthwise and scoop out the pulp into a potato ricer or food mill fitted with the finest disk. Rice or mill the potato onto a baking sheet and spread it out to let as much steam escape as possible. Once all the steam has dissipated, sprinkle and drizzle evenly over the potatoes:

Mix these ingredients into the potato using a dough scraper or spatula until combined. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and briefly knead until smooth. Bring 4 inches of well-salted water to a simmer in a large pot. Have ready:

Roll about 2 tablespoons of the dough into a ¾-inch-thick log. Cut crosswise into ¾-inch pieces. Press each piece against the tines of a fork, rolling it as you do; this will naturally cause the gnocchi to curl slightly, leaving one side indented and the other ridged. Test the gnocchi by dropping a few into the simmering water and cooking until they float, about 2 minutes. They should hold a firm shape and be chewy to the bite. If they are too soft or disintegrate, knead into the dough:

Test again. When the dough is right, roll the rest of the dough into three or four ¾-inch-thick ropes. Cut the ropes into ¾-inch pieces, shape the dough on the fork as directed above, letting them drop onto a lightly floured baking sheet. Bring the water back to a simmer. Do not let the water reach a full boil. Drop one-third to half of the gnocchi into the pot and simmer, uncovered, until they float, then remove with a slotted spoon or skimmer to a wide bowl. Never drain gnocchi by pouring the contents of the pot into a colander. Drizzle some of the melted butter over the gnocchi. Toss to coat. Repeat until all the gnocchi are done. Serve hot with:

To make gnocchi ahead, spread uncooked gnocchi on a lightly floured baking sheet and freeze until hard, then transfer to a freezer bag or container; they will keep frozen for up to 1 month. Cook directly from the freezer, adding about 1 minute to the cooking time.

II. QUICK

About 60 gnocchi; 4 servings

Instant potatoes turn gnocchi-making into a breezy, 15-minute affair rather than an hours-long commitment. While we cannot claim that they are equal to their from-scratch brethren in every way, they are tasty in their own right and a great way to get your bearings as you learn how to make gnocchi.

Place in a medium bowl:

Pour over them:

Stir to combine, then stir in:

Knead briefly until the mixture is smooth, then shape and cook as described in version I, dusting the surface with flour as needed.

Malfatti means “badly made,” so you’ll know you’ve made these properly if they seem a little… rustic. Please read about Forming Quenelles for guidance on how to use two spoons to shape these, but don't worry about achieving a perfect shape. You may substitute one 10-ounce package frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry, for the fresh spinach, if desired.

Cook in rapidly boiling water until wilted, less than 1 minute:

Transfer to an ice water bath to cool, drain well, then place in a clean kitchen towel and wring out as much moisture as possible. Finely chop the spinach and place in a medium bowl. Add and stir to combine:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a simmer. With a spoon, scoop up about 1 tablespoon of the gnocchi mixture. Use a second spoon to shape the mixture into rough ovals or balls, then drop into the simmering water. Cook several at a time until they float. The dumplings will shed a little spinach into the water; this is normal. Never allow the water to boil. Transfer the dumplings with a slotted spoon to a serving dish and repeat with the remaining gnocchi. To serve, top the gnocchi with:

Or place the gnocchi in a lightly greased baking dish, drizzle with butter and finely grated Parmesan, and bake at 400°F until lightly browned, about 15 minutes.

For a similar dish that uses polenta, see Fried Polenta. After cutting out the gnocchi, there will be scraps. You may place these in a second, small dish, top with cheese, and bake as directed. These make a tasty cook’s snack or delicious leftovers.

Bring to a boil in a medium saucepan:

Reduce the heat to medium-low and slowly stream into the milk while stirring:

Stir until the mixture is very thick, like polenta; this will happen almost immediately. Remove from the heat and stir in:

Grease a rimmed baking sheet and spread the semolina mixture onto it. Cover with plastic wrap and let set until cool enough to touch. Use your hands to press the mixture into an even layer ½ inch thick. Refrigerate, covered, at least 2 hours or until firm.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a 9-inch square baking dish. Using a 2-inch round cookie or biscuit cutter or a drinking glass, cut out rounds of the semolina mixture and transfer them to the baking dish, overlapping them slightly. Top with:

Bake until golden brown, about 25 minutes.

Think of these as lazy, cheesy gnocchi.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter an 8- or 9-inch baking dish or pie plate. Combine in a medium bowl:

Using two spoons, scoop heaping tablespoons of the mixture into the baking dish, forming rough, irregularly shaped dumplings. Prepare, using 4 tablespoons butter:

When the butter is browned, remove from the heat and add:

The butter will foam. When the foam subsides, pour the butter over the gnudi. Bake until browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve topped with:

Prepare, omitting the sugar:

Stir in:

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Transfer the dough to a zip-top bag or a pastry bag. Cut a hole in one corner of the bag or pastry bag (there is no need to use a tip if using a pastry bag) about 1 inch wide. Holding the bag over the pot, gently squeeze it. When about 1 inch of dough is extruded, use a sharp knife or scissors to cut it off, letting it fall into the water. Repeat until about 15 or so dumplings are in the boiling water. When the gnocchi float, allow them to cook 2 minutes more, then transfer with a slotted spoon to a plate or baking sheet. Cook the remaining dough in the same way.

Melt in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium heat:

Add half the gnocchi and sauté, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned. Transfer to a serving dish and repeat with remaining gnocchi and more butter. Top with:

Alternatively, the gnocchi may be layered in a dish with:

and sprinkled with:

Bake at 375°F until warmed through and the cheese is melted, about 20 minutes.

These German egg dumplings are often served alongside a goulash or stew and are particularly welcome next to Wienerschnitzel or Sauerbraten. Substituting milk for the water produces a richer, if slightly denser, dumpling. If desired, sauté the cooked spätzle in butter until the edges are crisp.

Combine in a bowl:

Beat together in a small bowl:

Add to the flour mixture. Beat well with a wooden spoon to create a fairly elastic batter. Bring to a simmer in a large saucepan:

Drop small bits of the batter from a spoon into the bubbling liquid, or force the batter through a colander, potato ricer, or spätzle maker to produce strands of dough that will puff into irregular shapes. The spätzle are done when they float to the surface. They should be delicate, light, and slightly chewy. If the first few taste heavy and dense, add a few more drops of water or milk to the batter before continuing. Lift the cooked spätzle from the saucepan with a strainer or slotted spoon. Serve sprinkled with:

Or transfer to a shallow broilerproof baking dish and preheat the broiler. Top the spätzle with:

Broil until the cheese is melted, about 1 minute.

This Greek casserole is a little time-consuming to prepare, but it can be done in stages. In fact, it tastes best when assembled ahead and refrigerated for a day before baking.

Prepare:

Heat in a medium saucepan over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes:

Add:

Cook, stirring to break up the meat, until no longer pink. Stir in:

Simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Take off the heat and stir in:

Meanwhile, cook in a large pot of boiling salted water until slightly undercooked:

Drain and combine the pasta and meat sauce. (The pasta mixture and the white sauce can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days before assembling.)

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease a 13 × 9-inch baking dish. Spoon the pasta mixture into the dish. Place the white sauce in a large bowl and mix in:

Pour the white sauce over the pasta. Sprinkle with:

Bake until set and golden, 35 to 40 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes before cutting.

Kugel is a type of casserole served at traditional Jewish holiday meals, and there are countless recipes for them, both sweet and savory. For another savory favorite, see Potato Kugel. If you prefer a dish without a crunchy top, bake covered with foil.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 13 × 9-inch baking dish.

Heat in a large skillet over medium-high heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until golden brown, about 10 minutes:

With a slotted spoon, transfer the onions to a bowl. Add to the oil remaining in the skillet:

Cook, stirring, until the mushrooms are browned, about 10 minutes. Set the skillet aside. Meanwhile, cook in a large pot of boiling salted water:

Drain and place in a bowl. Add and stir together well:

Stir in the onions and mushrooms with the oil from the skillet, along with:

Pour the mixture into the baking dish and bake until lightly browned, about 35 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Grease a 13 × 9-inch baking dish. Stir together in a large bowl:

Cook in a large pot of boiling salted water until slightly undercooked:

Drain, add to the cheese mixture, and stir together well. Pour into the prepared baking dish. Bake for 1 ½ hours. Meanwhile, stir together in a small bowl:

Sprinkle over the top of the casserole. Bake for 30 minutes more, until browned. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.

If you choose one of the less-cheesy fillings, try topping with 3 cups White Sauce I and 1 cup shredded Parmesan (4 ounces) instead of tomato sauce and mozzarella.

Prepare and have ready:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 13 × 9-inch baking dish.

Cook in a large pot of boiling salted water until barely tender:

Drain. Stuff the pasta with the filling and arrange side by side in the prepared baking dish. (At this point, the dish can be covered and refrigerated for up to 24 hours.) Spoon the tomato sauce over the pasta and sprinkle with:

Cover with foil and bake until heated through, about 40 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.

For Cannelloni, prepare one recipe of any fresh pasta dough, rolled and cut into 4-inch squares. Leave the pasta squares unboiled. For Crespelles, prepare one recipe of Savory Crêpes. Prepare the sauces, fillings, and baking dish as for Baked Manicotti or Shells. Spread about ¼ cup of filling along one edge of each pasta square or in a line in the center of each crêpe. Roll them up to form a tube shape, and place seam side down in the greased baking dish. Cover with the sauce and cheese and bake as directed.

Have ready:

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease a deep 13 × 9-inch baking dish, 13 × 9 × 2-inch baking pan, or lasagne pan. Have ready:

For dried noodles, cook in a large pot of boiling salted water until barely tender. Drain the pasta, rinse under cool water, and blot dry. For fresh lasagna noodles, do not boil. Spread a thin layer of sauce over the bottom of the prepared pan. Arrange a single layer of pasta, slightly overlapping, in the bottom of the pan. Spread with one-third of the ricotta. Scatter one-quarter of the mozzarella over the ricotta and sprinkle with ¼ cup of the Parmesan. Reserve 2 cups of the sauce for the top of the lasagne, and spoon about one-third of the remaining sauce into the pan. Add another layer of pasta, and continue layering until you have 4 layers of pasta with 3 layers of filling. Spread the reserved sauce over the top layer of pasta. Sprinkle with the remaining mozzarella and Parmesan. Place the pan on a baking sheet to catch any drips, loosely cover the pan with foil, and bake for 30 minutes. Uncover and continue to bake until golden and bubbling, 20 to 25 minutes more. Let stand 15 minutes before serving.

Prepare the white sauce and meat sauce a day or so ahead, if you like.

Prepare and have ready:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a deep 13 × 9-inch baking dish, 13 × 9 × 2-inch baking pan, or lasagne pan. Have ready:

For dried noodles, cook in a large pot of boiling salted water until barely tender. Drain the pasta, rinse under cool water, and blot dry. For fresh lasagna noodles, do not boil. If necessary, warm the Bolognese sauce. Spread 1 cup Bolognese sauce over the bottom of the prepared pan. Cover with a layer of pasta, overlapping the noodles slightly. Reserve ¾ cup of the white sauce for the top of the lasagne, spread ¾ cup of the white sauce over the noodles, and top with 1 cup of the meat sauce. Sprinkle with ¼ cup of the cheese. Top with another layer of pasta. Repeat until you have 4 layers of pasta with 3 layers of filling, and top the final layer of pasta with the reserved white sauce and ¼ cup cheese. Place the pan on a baking sheet to catch any drips, loosely cover the pan with foil, and bake for 30 minutes. Uncover and continue to bake until golden and bubbling, 20 to 25 minutes more. Let stand 15 minutes before serving.

For the most flavor, supplement standard cremini mushrooms with other varieties such as shiitake, chanterelle, maitake, morel, or oyster. But even if you just use creminis, this will still be delicious!

Prepare, using 2 rimmed baking sheets:

To ensure the mushrooms roast evenly, switch the baking sheets and rotate them halfway through cooking. As the mushrooms roast, heat in a medium saucepan until steaming:

Cover and remove from the heat. Melt in a large saucepan over medium heat:

Whisk in:

Let the flour sizzle in the butter until golden, about 5 minutes. Gradually whisk in the porcini-infused milk (leave the dried porcinis in the milk). Bring to a simmer, whisking frequently, and cook until thickened, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. When the mushrooms have finished roasting and cooled slightly, coarsely chop them and stir into the milk mixture, along with:

Season to taste with:

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease a deep 13 × 9-inch baking dish, 13 × 9 × 2-inch baking pan, or lasagne pan. Prepare:

Have ready:

For dried noodles, cook in a large pot of boiling salted water until barely tender. Drain the pasta, rinse under cool water, and blot it dry. For fresh lasagna noodles, do not boil. Spread a thin layer of mushroom sauce on the bottom of the prepared pan. Cover with a layer of noodles, overlapping them slightly. Top with one-third of the ricotta mixture and one-quarter of the mushroom sauce. Repeat three more times, topping the last layer of pasta with the remaining mushroom sauce. Sprinkle on top:

Cover the lasagne with foil and bake 30 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until well browned and bubbling, about 15 minutes more. Let stand for 15 minutes before serving.

The vegetables in this meatless lasagne can be prepared a day ahead, covered, and stored in the refrigerator.

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Place in a large bowl:

Add to the vegetables and toss to coat:

Divide the vegetables between 2 rimmed baking sheets, spreading them in a single layer. Roast for 20 minutes. Toss the vegetables with a spatula and continue to roast until well browned and soft, about 20 minutes more. Meanwhile, prepare or have ready:

Reduce the oven temperature to 375°F. Grease a deep 13 × 9-inch baking dish, 13 × 9 × 2-inch baking pan, or lasagne pan. Have ready:

For dried noodles, cook in a large pot of boiling salted water until barely tender. Drain the pasta, rinse under cool water, and blot it dry. For fresh lasagna noodles, do not boil. Peel and chop the roasted garlic cloves. Prepare:

Mix the chopped garlic into the filling. Spread a thin layer of tomato sauce over the bottom of the prepared pan. Cover with a layer of pasta, slightly overlapping. Spread with one-third of the cheese filling. Spoon one-third of the roasted vegetables on top, then sprinkle one-quarter of the mozzarella and Parmesan over the ricotta. Top with ½ cup sauce. Add another layer of pasta and continue layering the lasagna until you have 4 layers of pasta and 3 layers of filling. Spread the remaining sauce on top and sprinkle with the remaining mozzarella and Parmesan. Place the pan on a baking sheet to catch any drips, loosely cover the pan with foil, and bake for 30 minutes. Uncover and continue to bake until golden and bubbling, 20 to 25 minutes more. Let stand for 15 minutes before serving.

A perfect, simple filling for dried pastas such as manicotti or jumbo shells as well as for fresh stuffed cannelloni, ravioli, or tortellini. If you like, add some finely chopped prosciutto or fresh herbs such as oregano, marjoram, or thyme. Pasta stuffed with this filling is perfect with tomato sauces, Pesto, or Hearty Beef Ragu.

Mix together in a medium bowl until thoroughly combined:

Chill until ready to use. The filling can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days.

Mushroom-filled pasta pairs nicely with creamy sauces, or a simple tomato-based sauce.

Rinse and soak in hot water to cover until softened, about 20 minutes:

Heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until the onion is browned:

Lift the mushrooms from the soaking liquid, reserving the liquid, squeeze dry, and finely chop. Add the mushrooms to the skillet along with:

Cook the mushrooms, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add:

Bring to a boil and cook until the pan is almost dry. Line a fine-mesh sieve with dampened paper towels and pour the mushroom soaking liquid through the sieve directly into the skillet. Let it boil until evaporated. Add and let boil until evaporated:

Season to taste with:

Remove from the heat and let cool; remove and discard the bay leaves. Blend in:

The filling can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.

Our favorite filling for ravioli, this is also good in tortellini. Serve the cooked pasta with butter and cheese, or with a tomato sauce. For a vegetarian filling, substitute 1 cup finely chopped Sautéed Mushrooms or Seasoned Tempeh Crumbles for the browned meat.

Heat in a medium skillet over medium-high heat:

When the butter or oil is hot, add:

Cook, stirring often and breaking up the ground meat, until the mixture is browned and cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in:

Bring to a boil, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the skillet. Remove from the heat and let cool. Combine in a bowl:

Stir in:

The filling can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days.

Use to stuff ravioli or tortellini. We prefer them with the browned butter and sage mixture from Baked Gnudi with Brown Butter and Sage.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking pan with foil.

Halve lengthwise:

Scoop out the seeds and membranes. Place the halves cut side down in the pan. Bake until tender when pierced with a knife, about 1 hour. Let cool slightly, scoop out the pulp, then pass through a ricer or food mill, or puree in a food processor until smooth. You should have about 1 ½ cups (slightly more or less is fine). Mix the squash with:

The filling can be covered and refrigerated for up to 4 days.

Often served with a complementary sauce like any other pasta, cooked ravioli may also be sautéed in butter or olive oil until crispy around the edges and seasoned with fresh herbs and grated Parmesan.

Have ready:

Lay the pasta sheet with a long edge parallel to you on a lightly floured surface. On half of the sheet, place ½-teaspoon mounds of the filling spaced 1 inch apart. Dip your finger in water and run it around each mound of filling. Fold the other half of the pasta sheet over, taking care to cover each mound so that no air is trapped. With the side of your hand, press firmly between the mounds of filling to seal. Use a pizza cutter or pastry wheel to cut the sheet into squares or rectangles, checking that each piece is well sealed. (To cut round ravioli, use a cookie cutter or biscuit cutter.) Place the ravioli, not touching one another, on baking sheets dusted with flour. Repeat with the remaining pasta and filling. Let stand 45 minutes to 1 hour at room temperature, turning the pieces occasionally, before cooking.

To cook, bring to a boil in a large pot:

Add the ravioli, being careful not to crowd the pot; cook them in batches if necessary. Reduce the heat and simmer gently until the ravioli float to the surface, 2 to 3 minutes. Frozen ravioli will require an extra minute or two.

Tortellini are traditionally stuffed with a meat filling, but mushroom, winter squash, or cheese filling is also good. We recommend doubling or tripling this recipe and freezing the extra.

Prepare:

Use a 2-inch round cutter to cut out rounds of dough. Place ¼-teaspoon filling in the center of each dough round, and fold the round in half, sealing the edges. Bring the two ends of the half-moon together and pinch them together to form a plump circle. Place the shaped tortellini on a floured baking sheet and loosely cover with a damp kitchen towel. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. Dough scraps may be saved and rerolled once. If the dough becomes too dry to seal, dip your finger in a little water and moisten the edges of the dumplings before sealing. Let the tortellini sit on the baking sheet 45 minutes to 1 hour before cooking. Cook as for Ravioli.

Place in a large pot:

Add cool water to cover, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and mash or rice the potatoes into a bowl and mix in:

Allow to cool completely before using.

Heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until soft:

Add and cook, stirring, until tender:

Transfer to a bowl and stir in:

Allow to cool completely before using.

Combine in a medium bowl:

Chill until ready to use.

As an alternative to this recipe, you may use Sour Cherry Preserves as a filling.

Combine in a medium saucepan:

Bring to a boil and cook until the juices have reduced and are no longer runny, about 15 minutes. Combine in a small bowl:

Stir the cornstarch slurry into the cherries. Boil to thicken, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and let cool.

Ukrainian vareniki and Polish pierogi are made from rounds of dough folded around filling into half-moons. Fillings vary from savory ground meat and cabbage to potatoes and cheese, to slightly sweet farmer cheese and berries, the last of which is often served as a dessert. They are delicious sautéed in (or dressed with) butter, topped with sour cream, and served as a substantial first course or light main course.

Have ready:

Divide the dough into 4 pieces and tightly cover 3 of the pieces with plastic wrap. Use a pasta roller or a rolling pin to roll out one piece of dough as thin as possible, about ¹⁄₁₆ inch thick. Use a 3-inch round cutter to cut out rounds of dough. Place a heaping teaspoon of filling slightly off-center on each dough round, and fold the dough over to form a half-moon, sealing the edges. Bring the two ends of the half-moon together and pinch them to form a plump circle. Place the shaped dumplings on a floured baking sheet and loosely cover with a damp kitchen towel. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling. Dough scraps may be saved and rerolled once. If the dough becomes too dry to seal, dip your finger in a little water and moisten the edges of the dumplings before sealing. Let the dumplings rest on the baking sheet for 45 minutes before cooking. To cook, make a soup (such as Hearty Dumpling Soup), or simply bring to a simmer in a large pot:

Add the dumplings in batches to avoid overcrowding, reduce the heat, and simmer until the dumplings float, 2 to 3 minutes. Carefully remove with a strainer or slotted spoon to a warmed bowl. Repeat with the remaining dumplings. Pour over them:

Serve with:

Jewish kreplach are traditionally cooked and served in a hearty chicken or beef broth. A particularly clever strategy is to mince the chicken or beef you have made the broth with and combine with sautéed onions to fill the dumplings. Other common fillings include leftover Beef Pot Roast or Sweet-and-Sour Brisket; simply substitute 1 cup minced leftover meat for the chicken or ground beef.

Mix together in a bowl:

Prepare:

Divide the dough into 4 pieces and tightly cover 3 of the pieces with plastic wrap. Use a pasta roller or a rolling pin to roll out one piece of dough as thin as possible, about ¹⁄₁₆ inch. Cut the dough into 3-inch squares. Place a heaping teaspoon of filling slightly off-center and fold over to form a triangle. Seal the edges by pressing them with your fingers, then with the tines of a fork. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. Cook as for Vareniki or Pierogi.

A Russian favorite, pelmeni hail from Siberia where they were traditionally carried along on winter hunting trips and buried in sacks in the snow, where they would keep for months. We prefer pelmeni served on their own with sour cream, but they may also be cooked and served in broth. Because these are a bit labor-intensive to make, find a friend or duty-bound loved one to help. To freeze pelmeni, see here.

Have ready:

Combine in a medium bowl:

Refrigerate the mixture while you roll out the dough. Divide the dough into 4 pieces and tightly cover 3 of the pieces with plastic wrap. Use a pasta roller or a rolling pin to roll out one piece of dough as thin as possible, about ¹⁄₁₆ inch. Use a 2- to 3-inch round cutter to cut out rounds of dough. Place a teaspoon of filling slightly off-center on each dough round, and fold the round in half, sealing the edges. Bring the two ends of the half-moon together and pinch them to form a plump circle. Place the shaped pelmeni on a floured baking sheet and loosely cover with a damp kitchen towel. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. Dough scraps may be saved and rerolled once. If the dough becomes too dry to seal, dip your finger in a little water and moisten the edges of the dumplings before sealing. Let the pelmeni rest on the baking sheet for 45 minutes before cooking.

To cook, bring to a boil in a large pot:

Boil as many pelmeni as will fit comfortably in a single layer in the pot—do not crowd. When the pelmeni float, cook for 1 minute more. Cook frozen pelmeni for an additional minute. Remove with a slotted spoon and cook remaining pelmeni. Serve with:

Homemade wontons are fun and easy to prepare. Once assembled, they can be frozen for later use. When cooking wontons, keep the water at a low simmer to prevent them from opening.

Pulse in a food processor until finely chopped:

Transfer to a bowl and add:

Stir together in a small bowl to make an egg wash:

Have ready (but covered):

Working in batches, lay out 10 wrappers, arranging them so that one point is facing you. Lightly brush each wrapper with egg wash. Place 1 teaspoon of the filling in the center of each wrapper, as shown. Fold the wonton in half by bringing the bottom corner up to meet the top corner, forming a triangle. Press the edges firmly to seal, squeezing all the air out. Then, bring the two outside points to meet at the center and press to seal. To cook, see Hearty Dumpling Soup or Fried Wontons. You may also freeze wontons as directed in About Stuffed Pasta.

Heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are wilted, about 5 minutes:

Transfer to a bowl and let the filling cool. Season the filling, make the egg wash, fill, and fold as for Wontons.

Prepare the dough for:

Allow the dough to rise once. Have ready:

Cut parchment paper into sixteen 3-inch squares and set aside. Divide the dough in half, covering half with plastic wrap to prevent it from drying out. Shape the other half into a log about 12 inches long. Divide into 8 pieces. Shape each piece into a ball by rolling it on your work surface beneath your palm. Use a rolling pin (a small dowel-like pin works best) to roll each piece into a roughly 5-inch round that is slightly thicker in the center than at the edges. Lay the dough round on your palm and place 1 heaping tablespoon of filling in the middle. Use the thumb of the hand holding the dough to press the filling down as you gather up the edges with your other hand, pleating them as you go. After the last pleat, gently twist the pleated “topknot” of the bun to seal it. Place each filled bun on a square of parchment and cover with a damp kitchen towel while you finish shaping and filling the buns.

Place the buns in a bamboo steamer, cover, and let rise until puffy, about 30 minutes. Pour ½ inch of water into a skillet or wok on top of which the bamboo steamer will sit. Place the steamer on top of the skillet and bring the water to a boil. The steamer should be sitting above, not in, the water. When steam starts to come out the top of the steamer, set a timer for 15 minutes. When the time is up, carefully remove the steamer from the skillet and serve the buns immediately. Leftover buns may be refrigerated for up to 4 days or frozen for up to 2 months. Steam or microwave to reheat.