MEATY TOMATO SAUCE
About 4 cups

A simple and relatively quick sauce. For a deluxe, long-simmered upgrade, see Hearty Beef Ragu.

Add to a large heavy saucepan or skillet:

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • (2 ounces pancetta or bacon, diced)

If using pancetta or bacon, cook over medium heat, stirring, until it renders its fat, and drain off all but 2 tablespoons. Increase the heat to medium-high and add:

  • ½ pound ground beef, lamb, pork, or mild or hot Italian sausage, store-bought or homemade

Cook, stirring, until the meat browns, about 7 minutes. Transfer the meat to a plate and pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from the pan. Add and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes:

  • 1 medium onion, chopped

Add and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes:

  • 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
  • (¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes)

Add the reserved meat and:

  • One 28-ounce can whole tomatoes
  • (1 teaspoon fresh thyme or oregano leaves or ½ teaspoon dried thyme or oregano)
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ¼ teaspoon black pepper
  • Pinch of sugar

Cook, uncovered, crushing the tomatoes with a potato masher or a wooden spoon, until they have cooked down and smell very fragrant, about 15 minutes. Cover and cook over low heat, stirring often, until the sauce is thickened, about 30 minutes. Stir in:

  • 3 tablespoons slivered basil or chopped parsley
  • Salt and black pepper to taste

Savory Sauces, Salad Dressings, Marinades, and Seasoning Blends