Cooked in the style of risotto, pearl barley thickens the cooking liquid and becomes rich and creamy (Scotch or hulled barley will not work).

Melt in a large, deep skillet over medium heat until the foam subsides:

Add and cook, stirring, until tender but not browned, about 7 minutes:

Stir in and cook until softened:

Add and stir until glazed with butter:

Add and cook, stirring, until the liquid is absorbed, about 3 minutes:

Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer:

Stir 2 cups of the broth into the barley. Cook at a moderate to brisk simmer, stirring occasionally, until the broth is almost absorbed, 8 to 9 minutes. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time, allowing each addition to be absorbed before adding the next and stirring often; it will take 4 to 5 minutes for each addition to be absorbed and a total of 45 to 55 minutes for the barley to become tender. If you run out of broth before the barley is done, finish cooking with hot water. Stir in, if desired:

Garnish with:

This can be made up to 4 days ahead. Let cool completely, then cover and refrigerate. Reheat in a skillet over low heat, adding a little water and stirring frequently.

Kasha varnishkes is a traditional Eastern European dish. It can be turned into a salad by adding blanched asparagus, broccoli, or other fresh vegetables and tossing with a vinaigrette.

Combine in a large nonstick skillet and cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until the onions are browned, about 10 minutes:

Add and cook 1 minute more:

Transfer to a large bowl. Wipe out the skillet and set aside. Meanwhile, cook in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente:

Drain and toss with the onion mixture. In the nonstick skillet, cook:

as directed in the Grains Cooking Chart, using instead of water:

Stir in the pasta mixture. Taste and adjust the seasoning. If the mixture is dry, add:

Sprinkle with:

This simple side dish may also be used as a filling for Pierogi.

Heat in a large saucepan over medium heat:

If desired, add and cook, stirring, until softened, about 1 minute:

Add and cook, stirring, until toasted and golden, about 3 minutes:

Stir in:

Cover and cook over low heat until the buckwheat is tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Let stand, covered, for 5 minutes. Fluff before serving.

Bring to a boil in a medium saucepan:

Whisk into the boiling liquid in a thin, steady stream:

Stir until smooth. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook, stirring often, until the cornmeal loses its raw taste, about 30 minutes, stirring in a little more water if the mush becomes too thick. Spoon into bowls and drizzle over the top:

Long cooking yields the traditional, silky-smooth result. For quicker cooking, the night or morning before you wish to cook the polenta, bring 1 ½ cups water or broth to a boil in a large saucepan and whisk in the polenta. Cover and let sit for up to 12 hours. When ready to cook, add the remaining 2 ½ cups water or broth to the saucepan, whisk to break up the polenta, and simmer until thickened and the cornmeal has lost its raw taste, 10 to 12 minutes.

Bring to a boil in a large saucepan:

Pour in very slowly, whisking constantly:

Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until the polenta is thick and comes away from the sides of the pan as it is stirred and the cornmeal has lost its raw taste, 30 to 40 minutes. Stir in:

Cooking polenta for less time results in a toothsome texture. Some American brands of polenta are done in as little as 5 minutes; Italian polenta may take a bit longer.

Melt in a large saucepan over medium heat:

Add and cook until translucent:

Add and bring to a boil:

Slowly add, whisking constantly:

Adjust the heat to maintain a low simmer and cook, whisking, until the polenta has lost its raw taste, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 2-quart or 9-inch square baking dish.

Melt in a large saucepan over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until translucent, about 5 minutes:

Stir in and cook for 1 minute:

Add and bring to a boil:

Gradually whisk in:

Bring to a rapid boil, then remove from the heat. Stir in:

Add and stir to combine:

Pour the mixture into the prepared baking dish. Bake until firm and golden brown on top, about 1 hour.

Prepare Cheesy Baked Polenta or Grits, but separate the eggs and stir just the yolks in with the optional thyme or oregano and cayenne. Beat the egg whites until soft peaks form, then fold into the polenta or grits just before pouring them into the baking dish. Bake as directed.

In addition to the entrée serving suggestions given below, you may also top these crispy, golden triangles with Roasted Peppers or a simple dusting of Parmesan and black pepper. Serve as an appetizer, or as an accompaniment to soups, stews, or braised meats. The polenta can be cooked and chilled up to 3 days in advance. Of course, smaller leftover portions of polenta (or grits) can be chilled until set in a smaller vessel and fried as well.

I. PAN-FRIED

Prepare:

Lightly oil a 13 × 9-inch baking dish. Spread the polenta in an even layer in the dish and let cool slightly. Cover and refrigerate until cold and firm, at least 1 ½ hours. When ready to fry, cut the polenta into 3-inch squares, then cut the squares into triangles.

Heat on a griddle or in a large heavy skillet:

Carefully transfer the polenta to the pan, without crowding (cook in batches if necessary), and brown on both sides. Drain on paper towels. Serve topped with:

II. OVEN-FRIED

Cook, chill, and cut the polenta as for version I. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly brush it and the polenta pieces with:

Carefully transfer the polenta to the baking sheet. Bake until the bottom is browned, about 15 minutes. Turn the polenta pieces and bake until the other side is browned, about 10 minutes more. Serve as for I.

For the Low Country classic Shrimp and Grits, see here.

I. STOVETOP

Bring to a boil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan:

In a thin, steady stream whisk in:

Return to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the grits have visibly thickened, about 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the grits are soft but not runny, about 40 minutes more.

II. SLOW COOKER

Bring just to a boil in a medium saucepan:

Pour into a slow cooker set on low. Whisk in:

Stir in:

Cover and cook, stirring every hour, until very creamy and tender, about 6 hours.

For Vegetarian Posole, omit the chicken and add two 15-ounce cans pinto beans, drained. Reduce the simmering time to 30 minutes. To make with pork, omit the chicken and potatoes and brown 2 pounds cubed pork shoulder as for Red Posole before adding the onions. Proceed as directed, simmering until the pork is tender, 1 ½ to 2 hours.

Have ready:

Place in a blender and blend until smooth:

Heat in a large heavy soup pot over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 6 to 8 minutes:

Add and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds:

Increase the heat to medium-high and pour in the tomatillo mixture. Cook, stirring, until the mixture is at a brisk simmer and has turned olive green, about 5 minutes. Add the hominy along with:

Bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat, and simmer until the chicken is cooked through and the potatoes are tender, about 40 minutes. Remove the chicken from the pot and let sit until cool enough to handle. Shred the meat, discarding the bones or reserving them for stock. Return the chicken to the pot and season to taste with:

Simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Serve the posole, passing separately:

Have ready:

Remove the stems and seeds from:

Toast the chiles in a skillet or in the oven; they should soften but not blacken. Transfer them to a bowl and cover with warm water. Place a plate or bowl on top to keep the chiles submerged and let them soak for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, sprinkle:

with:

Heat in a large soup pot over medium-high heat until shimmering:

Add the pork in batches and brown on all sides. This should take about 20 minutes. Transfer the pork to a plate and drain all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pot. Add and cook, stirring, until the onion is softened, about 6 minutes:

Add the pork back to the pot along with:

Increase the heat to high. As the mixture heats, drain the soaked chiles and add to a blender, along with:

Puree until the chiles are a smooth paste. Strain the chile mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into the pot with the pork and stir well. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer, partially cover, and cook until the pork is tender, about 1 ½ hours. Discard the bay leaf. Serve with any of the garnishes from Green Posole.

Tamales can be wrapped in corn husks or banana leaves (see variation) and baked or steamed. (If neither is available, you can use 8 × 10-inch pieces of parchment paper.) To vary this recipe, use about 2 ½ cups Picadillo, shredded Braised Carnitas, or leftover shredded cooked chicken dressed with Red Mole or Green Mole. Or make vegetarian tamales with drained Frijoles de la Olla and cheese. Season the filling to taste with salt and spices before forming the tamales. To use fresh masa, substitute 4 cups (2 pounds) fresh masa for the masa harina/liquid mixture, beating it into the shortening or lard as directed and adding baking powder and salt.

Submerge in a bowl of warm water:

Let stand until soft and pliable, about 1 hour (you can leave them to soak overnight, if desired).

Combine on a plate:

Coat with the seasoning:

Heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add the chicken thighs and brown lightly on both sides, then cover and cook over medium-low heat until cooked through, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Add to the skillet and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes:

Add and cook, stirring, for another 2 minutes:

Transfer the onions and peppers to a medium bowl. Finely shred the cooked chicken, add it to the bowl with the onions, and set aside. Stir together in a large bowl until blended:

Slowly stir in until well combined:

Beat in another large bowl with an electric mixer on high speed until fluffy, about 2 minutes:

Gradually add the masa mixture one golf ball–sized piece at a time while beating on high speed. Once all the masa is added, continue beating until the dough is the consistency of fluffy mashed potatoes. In theory, the dough is ready when ½ teaspoon dropped into a glass of cold water floats, but even if it doesn’t, the tamales will still be delicious.

Drain the corn husks and pat dry. Set aside 16 of the biggest ones. Have ready:

Place a steamer insert or an expandable steamer in a deep stockpot, or use a tamale steamer. Fill the bottom of the pot or steamer with 1 to 2 inches of water (it should not touch the bottom of the steamer insert or rack). Line the bottom and sides of the pot or steamer with two-thirds of the remaining corn husks.

To form the tamales, lay one corn husk rough side up on a work surface, with the pointed end closer to you. Spread ¼ cup masa dough thinly over the wide part of the husk, leaving the pointed end bare. Spoon 2 tablespoons of the chicken mixture in a vertical line down the center of the masa, then sprinkle with 1 ½ tablespoons of the cheese. Fold over the left and right sides to enclose the filling (if the husk is too small to enclose the filling, wrap with another husk), then fold the pointed end up. If desired, secure the tamale with kitchen string or leave it untied. Stand the tamale in the steamer, open end up. As you form the rest of the tamales, place them in the steamer.

Cover the tamales with the remaining corn husks. Cover the pot, bring to a boil, and steam over medium heat until a husk peels away easily from the filling, about 1 hour. Add more boiling water to the pot during cooking if necessary.

Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 5 minutes before serving. Or let cool completely and refrigerate for several days, or freeze for up to 3 months. Reheat in the steamer before serving.

While most of us are familiar with corn husk–wrapped tamales, banana leaf tamales are common in the tropical regions of Mexico, such as Oaxaca and the Yucatán Peninsula. You can find banana leaves in the freezer section of most Mexican and Asian supermarkets. See Banana Leaves for more information.

Have ready one 1-pound package banana leaves. If the leaves are frozen, let them thaw at room temperature or thaw them under warm running water. Prepare the desired tamale filling and masa mixture and have everything ready.

Unfold the banana leaves, wipe them down with a damp cloth, and use kitchen shears to cut them into sixteen 8 × 10-inch rectangles, trimming off the center rib and any outer brown leaf tips and discarding them (or save the center ribs to tie the tamales).

Soften the banana leaf rectangles by briefly running them over a gas flame or warming them in a large, dry skillet over medium heat. The leaves will change color slightly to an olive green when they are ready. This should take only a few seconds on both sides. Fill and fold the leaves as directed in Chicken and Cheese Tamales. You may tie them to hold them together or leave them untied and simply pack them into the steamer so they stay closed. Cook as directed above.

“Three sisters” refers to three indigenous North American staple crops that were often grown together—corn, beans, and squash. They make fine companions inside a tamale as well.

Heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened and the squash is barely tender, about 8 minutes:

Stir in:

Set aside. Have ready:

Prepare:

Fill the tamales and steam as directed.

This recipe was contributed by our friend and cookbook author Maria Speck. It’s one of those dishes that is more than the sum of its parts.

Heat a medium saucepan over medium heat. When hot, add:

Cook, stirring frequently, until the millet crackles, emits a toasty scent, and starts to turn golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Watch closely so as not to burn the saffron. Add:

Take care as the water will splatter. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, cover, and cook until the liquid is absorbed, 15 to 20 minutes. If the kernels still have a bit too much crunch for your liking, drizzle on a few more tablespoons of water and cook a few minutes more.

Remove from the heat and distribute across the top of the millet:

Allow it to sit, covered, for 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork and serve immediately.

This recipe, adapted from an older edition of Joy, works well with almost any cooked grain. The additions can be varied—try using Gruyère or Swiss cheese instead of Cheddar, and stir in diced ham and Melted Leeks.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil an 8- or 9-inch square baking dish.

Combine in a medium bowl:

Scrape the mixture into the prepared dish and bake until set and browned, about 40 minutes.

Serve with Wilted Tender Greens and a Fried Egg as a vegetarian entrée. The millet mixture can be prepared up to 2 days in advance.

Blot with paper towels:

Heat in a large skillet or large wide saucepan over medium heat:

Add and cook for 1 minute:

Add and cook, stirring, over medium heat until the onion and millet are golden, about 4 minutes:

Add and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds:

Add the sun-dried tomatoes along with:

Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until the liquid is absorbed and the millet is soft, 25 to 30 minutes. Uncover and stir to break up the grains. Let cool slightly. Add:

Stir until well blended. Dampen your hands with cold water and shape ⅓-cup portions of the millet mixture into small patties about 3 inches in diameter and ½ inch thick. Place on a platter and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, for 1 hour.

Heat in a large nonstick skillet until hot:

Fry the millet cakes until browned on the first side, about 4 minutes. Turn and brown the other side.

This full-flavored granola, which is cooked until “well done,” has an almost savory quality. We think of it as granola for people who don’t like granola.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Lightly oil 2 large baking sheets (or line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper for easier cleanup).

Toss together in a large bowl:

Stir together in a small bowl until combined:

Stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients until fully combined. Spread the granola in a thin layer on the prepared baking sheets. Bake, stirring the granola every 15 minutes and rotating the sheets front to back and switching racks until the granola is a deep, burnished brown, about 1 hour.

Let cool completely, then transfer to an airtight container and store at room temperature for up to 1 month.

This dish is almost as much about aesthetics as it is about flavor. The orange squash, pink pomegranate seeds, and green herbs and pistachios are as visually enticing as they are flavorsome.

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Toss together on a large rimmed baking sheet:

Roast until tender and browned, about 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat in a large saucepan over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until softened, 6 to 8 minutes:

Stir in and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and toasted, about 5 minutes:

Add:

Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. Let stand off the heat for 5 minutes. Transfer the quinoa to a large bowl, add the squash, and toss to combine. Stir in:

Before serving, sprinkle with:

Proceed as for Buckwheat Pilaf, using 1 cup quinoa in place of the buckwheat.

This extra-crunchy granola uses pureed ripe banana in place of some of the sugar. The resulting granola is lightly sweet, with no real banana flavor to speak of.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Lightly oil a large baking sheet or line with parchment paper.

Stir together in a large bowl:

Combine in a blender and blend until smooth:

Stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients until fully combined. Spread the granola in a thin layer on the prepared baking sheet. Bake, stirring every 15 minutes, until golden brown, 50 minutes to 1 hour. Let cool completely. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 month.

Muesli, also called Swiss oatmeal, was developed in the late nineteenth century by a Swiss physician. Eat it at room temperature or warmed, with milk, yogurt, cream, or sliced fruit on top.

If desired, toast the oats before soaking them. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread out on a rimmed baking sheet:

Toast until fragrant and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Let cool completely. Or skip straight to soaking. Place the oats in a bowl and add:

Cover and soak overnight. Before serving, stir in:

Vary the fruit, nuts, and sweetener to suit your family’s tastes.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter an 8-inch square baking dish.

Combine in a medium bowl:

Pour into the baking dish and bake until the top is golden and the oats are set, about 30 minutes.

Prepare Baked Oatmeal, substituting for 1 cup of the milk 1 cup pumpkin, sweet potato, or winter squash puree. Add 1 teaspoon ground ginger, ¼ teaspoon ground allspice, and ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves. Stir in ½ cup raisins, currants, or golden raisins instead of fresh fruit. Bake as directed.

Sometimes cooking steel-cut oats in the morning can be a little too much to ask. With this method, you are doing your future self a favor: All you have to do in the morning is reheat the oats.

Combine in a medium saucepan:

Bring to a boil, cover, then remove from the heat. Let sit overnight. In the morning, reheat and serve with your favorite oatmeal toppings.

This recipe is easily doubled. For Baked Brown Rice, substitute brown rice for the white rice, increase the chicken broth or water to 2 ½ cups, and bake for 45 minutes. (For this variation, a loyal reader suggests replacing a quarter of the brown rice with wild rice.)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Heat in a Dutch oven or 10-inch ovenproof skillet with a lid over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes:

Add and stir until well coated:

Add:

Bring to a boil. Cover, put in the oven, and bake until the rice is tender and the broth has been absorbed, about 20 minutes. Let stand, covered, for 5 minutes before serving.

Pilafs call for cooking rice briefly in butter or oil before adding broth or water, a technique that ensures that the grains will be fluffy, separate, and flavorful. For even more flavor, sauté the rice until it browns slightly.

Melt in a large saucepan over medium-low heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until golden, about 8 minutes:

Add and stir until the rice becomes translucent around the edges 3 to 5 minutes:

Stir in:

Bring to a boil. Stir once, cover, and cook over low heat until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 15 minutes. Let stand off the heat, covered, for 5 minutes before serving. Sprinkle with:

Mujadara is a simple, frugal, and satisfying dish that is popular throughout the Levant, particularly as a Lenten staple for Orthodox Christians in Syria and Lebanon. Mujadara may appear homely, but the generous topping of silky browned onions gives the dish an alluring richness. To simplify things a bit, we cook the lentils and rice together, parboiling the lentils before adding the rice to ensure that they cook in the same amount of time.

Have ready:

Heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Stir two-thirds of the onions into the oil to coat and sprinkle with:

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are deep golden brown, about 20 minutes, reducing the heat if necessary to keep the onions from burning.

Meanwhile, heat in a large saucepan over medium heat:

Add the remaining onions and sauté, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in and cook for 1 minute:

Add:

Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat slightly, cover, and simmer briskly for 12 minutes. Stir in:

Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer until the rice and lentils are tender, about 20 minutes. Let stand off the heat for 5 to 10 minutes, then fluff with a fork. To serve, pile the lentils and rice onto a plate and top with the browned onions. Serve with:

If you can find fine egg noodles, use those instead of the angel hair pasta. To break pasta into small pieces without making a mess, hold them inside a paper bag as you break them apart.

Combine in a large, wide saucepan or deep skillet over medium heat and stir until the noodles are toasted and brown:

Add and cook, stirring, until the rice is translucent around the edges:

Add and bring to a boil:

Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Allow to stand off the heat, covered, 5 minutes before serving. Fluff with a fork.

This is a delicious way to use leftover rice. In fact, leftover rice works best since its excess moisture has evaporated, making it easier to fry and brown. To improve results with freshly cooked rice, spread the grains out on a baking sheet and let stand for 10 minutes, or until the rice stops steaming. See the additions below for ideas.

Whisk together:

Heat a large nonstick skillet or wok over medium heat until hot. Pour in, tilting the skillet to coat:

Add the eggs all at once. As the eggs set, push the edges toward the center and tilt the skillet to redistribute uncooked egg. When completely set, break the egg into clumps and transfer to a bowl. Pour into the skillet and heat over medium-high heat:

Add and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute:

Add and cook, stirring frequently, until the peas are thawed and carrots are just tender, about 3 minutes:

Add and cook, stirring frequently, until the rice is warmed through, about 3 minutes:

Stir in the cooked eggs, along with:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Combine in a Dutch oven or 10-inch ovenproof skillet and cook, stirring, over medium heat until the onions are golden, about 8 minutes:

Add and stir until well coated:

Add and bring to a boil:

Stir once, cover, transfer to the oven, and bake until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 25 minutes. Uncover and let stand 5 minutes before serving.

Southerners traditionally serve Hoppin’ John on New Year’s Day as a good luck dish. For a quicker version, use two 15-ounce cans black-eyed peas, drained and rinsed. Add the peas and ham to the rice and cook as directed.

Rinse, pick over, and soak for 6 to 8 hours:

Drain and rinse thoroughly. Place in an ovenproof pot or Dutch oven and add:

Bring to a simmer and simmer gently, uncovered, just until the peas are tender, 30 to 50 minutes depending on the age of the peas. Drain, reserving the cooking liquid (set the pot aside). Discard the bay leaves. Transfer the peas and ham to a bowl and season to taste with:

Cover and set aside. Add to the reserved cooking liquid, to make 2 ½ cups:

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Set the pot you used to cook the peas over medium heat and add:

Cook, stirring, until the bacon has rendered most of its fat and begun to crisp. Stir in:

Cook, stirring to coat the rice with fat, about 1 minute. Add the pea cooking liquid and the pea-ham mixture and bring to a simmer. Stir once, then cover, and bake until the rice has absorbed the liquid, 20 to 25 minutes. Sprinkle with:

Toss lightly with a fork to fluff the rice and mix the ingredients. Let stand uncovered for 10 minutes before serving. Hoppin’ John can be made 1 day ahead, covered, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature, then bake, covered and without stirring, in a 275°F oven just until warmed through.

An excellent, satisfying dish that combines creamy coconut milk and the floral, spicy Scotch bonnet chile. Serve with a Caribbean dish such as Jamaican Jerk Chicken or Guyanese Pepperpot.

Heat in a medium saucepan over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute:

Stir in and bring to a boil:

Stir in:

Return to a boil. Stir once, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the rice is tender and has absorbed the liquid, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 10 minutes. Remove the thyme sprigs and fluff with a fork before serving.

Season:

with:

Heat in a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat:

Add the chicken and cook, turning once, until browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate. Add to the skillet and brown:

Transfer to the plate with the chicken. Drain off all but 2 tablespoons of the drippings. Add and cook, stirring, until softened, about 8 minutes:

Add and cook for 2 minutes, stirring to coat:

Stir in:

Return the chicken and andouille to the skillet. Cook, covered, over medium-low heat until the liquid is absorbed and the chicken is cooked through, about 20 minutes. Cook, uncovered, until the sauce thickens, 5 to 8 minutes. Discard the bay leaf. Stir in before serving:

If you cannot find or do not want to add chicken gizzards, omit and add 12 ounces coarsely chopped mushrooms with the onions, celery, and pepper. To omit the liver as well, use 12 ounces mushrooms and 1 pound ground pork, sausage, or tasso ham.

Prepare for cooking and pat dry:

Heat in a Dutch oven or large saucepan over medium heat:

Add the gizzards and brown on all sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Add to the pot and brown, turning once, about 8 minutes:

Set aside with the cooked gizzards. Add to the pot:

Break up the meat with a spoon, and cook until browned, about 6 minutes. Stir in:

Cook until softened, about 5 minutes, scraping any browned bits off the bottom of the pot.

Finely chop the gizzards and liver and return them to the pot, along with:

Cook, stirring occasionally, for another 3 minutes. Add:

Stir, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Let stand off the heat for 5 minutes. Stir in:

Serve with:

Add any of the following to the recipe above at the same time as the carrot and peas.

Topping this spicy, smoky dish with the optional fried eggs makes it an exemplary breakfast or lunch.

Place in a large skillet over medium heat:

Cook until the bacon has rendered its fat and become browned and crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a plate lined with paper towels. Drain all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat from the skillet and add:

Cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Coarsely chop the cooked bacon and add to the skillet, along with:

Stir to combine and gently press the rice mixture into the skillet with the back of a spatula. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice starts to brown and crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to plates or bowls and, if desired, top each serving with:

Garnish with:

Congee, its Thai cousin, jok, and its Korean counterpart, juk, will win over even the most tender of stomachs. It is considered breakfast food and is a restorative meal for those recovering from a bad cold. Serve congee with any toppings you like—we are fans of cooked chicken, green onion, sesame oil, and soy sauce.

Place in a fine-mesh sieve and rinse:

Transfer to a large saucepan and add:

Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low, partially cover, and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the rice grains puff, then burst open, and the mixture is thick and porridge-like, about 1 hour. Stir more frequently toward the end of cooking to prevent the rice from sticking to the bottom of the pan. If needed, add a little water to reach a loose, porridge-like consistency.

Ladle the congee into bowls and serve piping hot topped with any of the following:

Traditionally Persian rice is cooked slowly in a heavy pot over direct heat so that a delicious crust, called tahdig, forms on the bottom. The crust is lifted out and served either on top of the soft cooked rice or in a separate dish. In this simplified version, the rice is baked in a nonstick skillet and inverted like a large pancake, with the crisp rice on top and the soft cooked rice underneath.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bring to a boil in a large pot:

Stir in:

Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the rice is almost tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and let stand in a sieve until ready to use. (Leave the spices in the rice.) Melt in a large ovenproof nonstick skillet over medium heat:

Spoon off 3 tablespoons of the butter and set aside. Add to the skillet:

Cook, stirring, until the onions are golden, about 8 minutes. Spread the onions in an even layer in the skillet. Stir into the cooked rice:

Spoon the rice over the onions. Smooth the top of the rice with the back of a large spoon and press down very firmly to pack it. Drizzle the reserved butter evenly over the top. Cover with a double layer of foil, pressing down on the top and crimping the edges. Transfer to the oven and bake for 1 hour.

Let stand, covered, for 10 minutes. Uncover the rice and invert a large round platter over the skillet. Protecting your hands with a kitchen towel, turn the skillet and platter over, allowing the rice to drop onto the platter. Sprinkle with:

Bring to a boil in a large saucepan:

Stir once, cover, and cook over very low heat until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 20 minutes. If desired, sprinkle over the cooked rice:

This flavorful South Indian–style rice dish is loaded with fragrant seeds, spices, and fresh curry leaves. While some of the ingredients are hard to find at a regular supermarket, a trip to an Indian grocery store should do the trick. You may also use 3 ½ to 4 cups leftover rice in this dish, heating until warmed through.

Cook:

Once cooked, but while the rice is still warm, heat in a large skillet over medium heat until shimmering:

Add and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned:

Stir in and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mustard seeds start to pop:

Cautiously stir in (the leaves may sputter):

Stir in:

Immediately add the cooked rice, stirring well to evenly coat the rice with the seasoning mixture. Remove from the heat and garnish with:

Paella gets its name from the broad, shallow pan (paellera) traditionally used to cook this classic Valencian dish. True Valencian paella is made with chicken, rabbit, and snails, though we chose not to include snails here.

Combine in a small bowl and set aside:

Heat in a 12- to 14-inch paella pan or large skillet over medium heat:

Add and brown in batches:

As the chicken and rabbit pieces are browned, transfer them to a plate. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pan. Add:

Cook, stirring often, until well browned and concentrated, about 15 minutes. Stir in:

Pour in the reserved saffron mixture along with:

Return the chicken and rabbit pieces to the pan. Simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Remove the chicken and rabbit from the pan once more. Add to the pan:

Stir well, making sure the ingredients are well distributed, then nestle the chicken and rabbit in the rice. Cook, uncovered and without stirring, over medium-low heat until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed, 20 to 25 minutes. If the liquid evaporates before the rice is done, add more hot stock or water as needed. For the last 5 minutes of cooking, increase the heat to medium-high to brown the bottom of the rice. Do not allow the rice to burn; however, a dark brown crust on the bottom of the pan is desirable. Let stand off the heat for 10 minutes before serving. Discard the rosemary sprig. To serve, cut the chicken and rabbit from the bone, then distribute the meat around the dish.

Prepare Paella Valenciana, omitting the rabbit and rosemary, and using Fish Stock or Shellfish Stock instead of chicken stock. If desired, add (4 ounces Spanish chorizo, diced) along with the onions and tomatoes. After the rice has cooked for 12 minutes, arrange 1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined, on top of the rice in a circular pattern. Cook, uncovered, for 10 minutes more. Arrange 18 mussels, scrubbed and debearded, on top of the rice, pressing them down slightly to embed them in the rice, and cook until the mussels open, about 5 minutes. Proceed as directed. Serve garnished with lemon wedges.

This rice is the base for all sushi (vinegared rice) dishes.

Place in a bowl with cold water to cover:

Swish the rice with your fingers vigorously, then drain the rice. Repeat until the water remains almost clear. This usually takes several rinsings. Drain the rice well after the final rinse. Transfer the rice to a straight-sided heavy-bottomed pot, along with:

Let the rice stand for 10 minutes. Cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid and bring to a boil over high heat. Do not remove the lid; instead, watch for the lid to begin to dance. This should take about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and continue to cook until the water is absorbed, about 5 minutes. Increase the heat to high again for 30 seconds to dry the rice. Remove the pot from the heat and let stand, still tightly covered, for at least 10 minutes, or up to 30 minutes. Use the following amounts to make less rice:

This is the vinegared rice essential to sushi. Use only warm, freshly cooked rice, which will better absorb the seasoned vinegar.

Combine in a small saucepan:

Heat, stirring, just until the sugar and salt are dissolved. Set the seasoned vinegar aside. Prepare:

Spread the hot rice out in a wide bowl. Toss the rice with a spatula or spoon while fanning it with a piece of stiff cardboard to cool it. When steam no longer rises from the rice, gradually sprinkle with 6 tablespoons of the seasoned vinegar, 1 tablespoon at a time, gently folding and tossing with the spatula. Taste and continue to add, again 1 tablespoon at a time, up to 6 tablespoons more seasoned vinegar, or to taste. Cover with a dampened cloth until ready to use.

The ingredients in this recipe can be used to make 5 crab, tuna, or salmon rolls and 5 vegetable rolls, or 10 vegetable rolls. For making an entire batch with fish or crab, you will need to double the amount. If the nori is not toasted, cook each sheet for a few seconds under the broiler or pass it back and forth over a gas flame until it stiffens slightly and is fragrant. For safety information for handling fish, see Serving Raw Fish.

Prepare:

Have ready and, if necessary, cut into 7 × 5-inch rectangles:

Have ready:

Place a bamboo sushi mat on a work surface with the slats running horizontally. Lay 1 nori sheet shiny side down on the mat with a long side closer to you. Spread ½ cup rice across the entire surface, leaving a 1-inch border at the top of the nori sheet.

To make each crab, tuna, or salmon roll, place 1 ounce crabmeat, 1 strip imitation crab, or 1 strip tuna or salmon across the center of the rice. Add 1 strip of cucumber, 2 strips of avocado placed end to end, carrot strips (if using) placed end to end, and 1 piece of green onion.

To make each vegetable roll, sprinkle the rice with sesame seeds. Top with 1 strip of cucumber, 2 slices of avocado placed end to end, carrot strips (if using) placed end to end, and 1 piece of green onion. Top with radish sprouts.

Beginning with the edge closer to you, roll up each nori sheet, using the sushi mat to squeeze along the length of the sheet to compress it into a compact roll. Continue rolling and squeezing to the end of the nori sheet. The roll should be as tight as possible. Roll back and forth gently to seal the nori. Lay the rolls seam side down on a tray, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until ready to serve. You will have some sushi rice left over.

To serve, cut each roll into 8 equal pieces. Serve with:

Diners can mix the soy sauce with wasabi, to taste, for dipping.

For Risotto Milanese, the classic accompaniment to braised meat, especially Osso Buco, steep 3 generous pinches saffron in 1 cup of the hot broth for 10 minutes and stir into the rice after adding the wine. Proceed as directed below.

Pour into a saucepan, heat, and maintain at a bare simmer:

Heat in a large heavy saucepan over medium-low heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until soft but not browned:

Stir in:

Continue to stir the rice until it is thoroughly coated in fat and almost entirely opaque, 3 to 5 minutes. Add, if desired:

Stir until the wine is absorbed. Stir in the broth 1 cup at a time, waiting for each cup to be absorbed before adding the next. Stir the risotto continuously and maintain a simmer. When 6 cups broth have been absorbed, add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time and start tasting the rice. Take the risotto off the heat when the rice is tender but still has some “bite”; it should be creamy, not stiff. Fold in:

Season to taste with:

Proceed as for Risotto, adding with the onion 2 ounces pancetta, minced. When half the broth has been absorbed, add 1 ½ pounds fresh or frozen peas, ½ cup coarsely chopped parsley, and 2 tablespoons chopped fennel tops or 1 teaspoon ground fennel seeds. Continue cooking. Finish with the Parmesan, butter, and a generous amount of black pepper.

This makes a satisfying main-course risotto, especially with wild mushrooms such as morels or chanterelles.

Soak in hot water to cover for 20 minutes:

Drain the mushrooms, reserving the soaking liquid, and coarsely chop. Pour into a saucepan, heat, and maintain at a bare simmer:

Heat in a large saucepan over medium heat:

Add the chopped porcini and:

Cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned. Stir in:

Stir the rice until it is thoroughly coated in fat and almost opaque, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the mushroom soaking liquid and boil until it has evaporated. Proceed as for:

We like to serve this golden risotto topped with sautéed chanterelle mushrooms and Seared Sea Scallops. If desired, prepare a corncob broth to use instead of or combined with the chicken broth: Place spent corn cobs in a pot and add water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 45 minutes, then strain.

Bring to a simmer in a medium saucepan:

Have ready:

In a food processor, puree 1 cup of the corn kernels. Set aside.

Heat in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until translucent, about 5 minutes:

Add:

Stir until the rice is coated in the fat and almost opaque, 3 to 5 minutes. Add, if desired:

Stir until the wine is absorbed. Stir in the broth 1 cup at a time, waiting for each cup to be absorbed before adding the next. Stir the risotto continuously and maintain a simmer. When 6 cups broth have been absorbed, add the pureed corn. Add the remaining broth ½ cup at a time and start tasting the rice. Take the risotto off the heat when the rice is tender but still has some “bite”; it should be creamy, not stiff. When the rice is tender, stir in the remaining corn. Stir in:

If desired, top with:

This method may be used with any risotto recipe. For instance, for Risotto with Mushrooms, sauté the mushrooms and shallots before adding the rice and broth. For Risi e Bisi, stir in the peas after the rice is fully cooked. Just remember that you will need about 4 cups broth for 2 cups rice.

Set a pressure cooker over medium heat or turn on an electric pressure cooker to the sauté function. Add butter or oil as directed, sauté the onion, and briefly toast the rice. Add the wine (if using) and cook until it has been absorbed. Add only 4 cups chicken broth, then put the lid on the pressure cooker, seal, and allow it to come up to pressure. Pressure-cook for 7 minutes. Quick-release the pressure by opening the release valve to vent all the steam. When all the steam is released, open the pressure cooker and stir in the Parmesan and butter as directed. Taste and season with salt and black pepper.

Proceed as for Buckwheat Pilaf, using in place of the buckwheat 1 cup rye berries, soaked overnight in water to cover. Increase the liquid to 2 ½ cups and increase the cooking time to 25 to 30 minutes.

Heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until golden, 8 to 10 minutes:

Stir in:

Cover and cook over low heat, stirring once or twice, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with:

If desired, sprinkle with:

This is our favorite combination of grains. The butter and soy sauce give it a rich, savory boost.

Bring to a boil in a medium saucepan:

Stir in:

Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 20 minutes. Stir in:

Continue to simmer, covered, until both grains are tender, about 40 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit, covered, for 10 minutes. Stir in:

Freekeh’s subtly smoky flavor is an excellent partner to the toasty browned Halloumi in this dish.

Cook as directed:

While the freekeh cooks, heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add:

Cook, turning occasionally, until well browned. Transfer to a plate and add to the skillet:

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the chickpeas start to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in:

Cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add to the skillet:

Cook, stirring, just until wilted, about 4 minutes.

When the freekeh is cooked, stir it into the chickpea and greens mixture and cook, stirring, until everything is heated through and any residual liquid clinging to the freekeh has evaporated. Stir in the Halloumi. Season with:

Whole-grain farro will not work very well using this method, so double-check to make sure that the farro you use is labeled “semi-pearled” (or look for pale spots or abrasions on the grain).

Proceed as for Risotto, using 2 cups semi-pearled farro instead of rice. You will likely need to use all 8 cups broth.

Bulgur can also be used in this recipe, or mix couscous and bulgur together for a tasty variation.

Toss together in a large bowl:

Add and toss to combine:

Season to taste with:

An amalgam of two classic Moroccan chicken stews, one with olives and one with preserved lemon. If you can’t find preserved lemon, we encourage you to try making your own.

Combine in a large zip-top bag or a bowl:

Refrigerate, covered, for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours, moving the chicken around in the bag or bowl from time to time.

Remove the chicken pieces. Heat in a Dutch oven or other large heavy pot:

Add the chicken in batches, without crowding, and brown on both sides. Add:

Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, skimming off any foam that rises with a slotted spoon. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer gently until the chicken is tender, about 40 minutes. Add:

Simmer until the chicken is falling off the bone, another 10 to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook, omitting the optional butter or oil:

Transfer to a large serving bowl and toss with:

Arrange the chicken, preserved lemons, and olives on top of the couscous. Bring the liquid in the pot to a boil and reduce by half. Stir in:

Taste and adjust the seasonings. Pour the sauce over the chicken and garnish with:

Heat in a saucepan over medium heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until softened but not browned:

Stir in:

Cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add:

Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until the couscous is tender but still firm and the liquid is absorbed, 15 to 18 minutes.

Cook:

While the rice is cooking, prepare:

Stir the cooked wild rice into the mushrooms and season to taste with:

Sprinkle with: