A festive Christmas dish that contains no plums (the English, who created it, called most dried fruits plums). Making it requires patience: Slow cooking is necessary so that the suet melts before the flour particles expand. If cooked too fast, the pudding will be hard. Many cooks set aside a calm day early in the holiday season for this project, for the pudding will only improve and mature while stored. An Irish friend’s mother steams her pudding a year in advance and stores it covered in the refrigerator, “feeding” it whiskey every other month (for more, see About Fruitcakes).
To make a single large pudding, use a 3-quart pudding mold, a 3-quart pudding basin, or a deep heatproof glass or ceramic bowl with a capacity of 3 to 3 ½ quarts. To make smaller puddings, use 2 or 3 molds, basins, and/or baking dishes with a total capacity of 3 to 4 quarts. Very generously grease the mold(s) with vegetable shortening.
Bring to a boil in a large saucepan:
- 2 ½ cups raisins
- 2 cups dried currants
- 2 cups water
Cover tightly and simmer gently for 20 minutes, then uncover and cook, stirring, until nearly all the liquid has evaporated. Let cool to room temperature. Combine in a large bowl:
- 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
- 8 ounces ground or finely chopped beef suet
Rub together lightly with your hands just until the suet particles are separated. Add:
- 1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
- 1 ½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
- 1 ½ teaspoons ground ginger
- ½ teaspoon ground cloves
- ½ teaspoon salt
Rub together just until blended. Whisk together thoroughly in a separate bowl:
- 4 large eggs
- ⅓ cup brandy or Cognac
- ⅓ cup cream sherry
Stir the egg mixture into the flour mixture, then stir in the raisin mixture. If desired, also stir in:
- (½ cup finely chopped dates)
- (½ cup finely chopped candied citron)
Pour the batter into the prepared mold(s), leaving at least 1 inch of headspace for expansion. If you are using a pudding mold with a cover, grease the inside of the cover and snap it in place. Otherwise, crimp a sheet of foil over the rim of each mold allowing little or no overhang down the sides, and cover with an inverted plate.
Set a rack or folded kitchen towel in the bottom of a pot large enough to hold the pudding comfortably. Set the pudding inside and pour enough boiling water into the pot to come two-thirds of the way up the sides of the mold(s). Cover the pot tightly. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, then adjust the heat to maintain a brisk simmer. Replenishing the pot with boiling water as necessary, steam a single large pudding for 6 to 7 hours, 2 smaller puddings for 4 to 5 hours, or 3 small puddings for 3 to 4 hours. When done, the pudding should be very dark in color nearly to the center. At this point, a large pudding can be kept warm in the covered pot, with the heat off, for 3 hours; smaller puddings for about 1 ½ hours.
Remove the pudding(s) and let stand at room temperature for 20 minutes, then invert onto a platter. If you wish to flame the pudding, warm to barely lukewarm in a small saucepan:
Drizzle the liquor over the pudding and then, standing back, ignite with a long match, lighter, or torch. Serve with:
- Crème Anglaise, Hot Wine or Plum Pudding Sauce, or Fluffy Hard Sauce
To store the pudding, cool to room temperature in the mold(s), then turn out. Wrap first in plastic, then in foil; refrigerate for up to 1 year—the pudding will become softer, darker, and more flavorful with age. To reheat, return the pudding to its original mold, well greased, and steam again in briskly simmering water for 1 ½ to 2 hours for a large pudding, about 1 hour for smaller puddings, or until a knife inserted in the center for 15 seconds comes out hot.