A basic, flexible formula that can be made with most dried chiles, such as guajillo, ancho, cascabel, and chipotle. We recommend using a variety of different types for greater complexity. (For an example of a balanced mix, see Goat Birria.)

Toast briefly in a large, dry skillet over medium heat:

Transfer to a bowl, breaking up if necessary, and add hot water to cover. Let soak for 15 minutes. Drain and transfer to a blender or food processor along with:

Puree until very smooth, adding water if necessary.

Use this sauce for enchiladas or as a condiment for grilled meats, fish, or roasted vegetables. Or, dilute it even further for use as a braising liquid for pork, lamb, or beef.

Prepare version I, using 1 to 2 cups water, stock, tomato juice, or Mexican lager. For a moderately thick sauce: Use the smaller amount of liquid, transfer to a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat and cook for 5 minutes. For a braising liquid: Use the larger amount of liquid (skip the simmering as the liquid will cook during braising). In either case, add more vinegar or lime juice and salt to taste.