Italian for “paste,” pesto is a popular Ligurian sauce made with fresh basil and pine nuts. Of course, it is not the only pesto, and we often find ourselves using what we have on hand, whether it is arugula and toasted hazelnuts; parsley, carrot tops, and almonds; or kale, oregano, and walnuts. To make the French condiment pistou, omit the nuts.

Combine in a food processor and process to a rough paste:

With the machine running, slowly add:

The pesto should be a thick paste. If it seems dry, add a little more olive oil. Season to taste with:

Use immediately, or pour a very thin film of olive oil over the top, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

For a more robust texture, use a mortar and pestle.

Using the ingredients and quantities from version I, pound the pine nuts until very fine. Add the garlic and pound until ground to a paste. Add the basil and a pinch of salt. Pound until ground to a paste. Stir in the cheese and pound until incorporated. Stir in the oil and season to taste.