The director of a boys’ camp in Maine once told us about the crestfallen faces in the dining room when it turned out that the “moose” promised for evening dessert had emerged from the pages of Joy instead of from the woods.

I. A traditional raw-egg mousse. If using pasteurized eggs, they will require more whipping to form stiff peaks.

Combine in the top of a double boiler or a large heatproof bowl:

Set the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and stir until the chocolate is melted. Whisk in:

Set aside. Beat in a medium bowl on medium speed until soft peaks form:

Gradually beat in:

Increase the speed to high and beat until the peaks are stiff but not dry. Fold one-third of the egg whites into the chocolate, then fold the chocolate mixture into the remaining whites. Divide among 6 ramekins or custard cups and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and for up to 24 hours.

II. This mousse uses cooked eggs.

Combine in a large heatproof bowl:

Set the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and stir until the chocolate is melted. Set the bowl aside (keep the pan of water). Whisk together thoroughly in another heatproof bowl:

Set the bowl over the simmering water and, stirring constantly with a silicone spatula, heat the mixture until it reaches 160°F. Remove the bowl from the pan of water and beat with a hand mixer until the mixture is light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Fold one-third of the egg mixture into the chocolate mixture, then fold the chocolate mixture into the remaining egg mixture. Divide among 6 ramekins or custard cups and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and for up to 24 hours.