If making a cold soufflé, tie paper collars around eight 6-ounce ramekins or one 1 ½-quart soufflé dish (see illustration). For a Bavarian cream, oil eight 8-ounce custard cups or ramekins or a 2 ½-quart charlotte or other mold.

Combine in a medium heatproof bowl:

Sprinkle over the top:

Let stand for 5 minutes. Whisk in a large bowl just until combined:

Heat in a medium heavy saucepan:

Gradually whisk the hot milk into the egg yolk mixture, then return this mixture to the saucepan. Cook over very low heat, stirring gently, until the mixture is thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon and reaches 175°F on an instant-read thermometer. Immediately pour the hot custard over the gelatin mixture and stir to completely dissolve the gelatin. If desired, strain the mixture. Set the bowl in a pan of cool water and stir until the custard is no longer warm and has thickened slightly. Whip until soft peaks form:

If the custard has stiffened, whisk until smooth. Whisk in one-third of the whipped cream and then gently fold in the rest. Turn into the prepared mold(s). Refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or for 10 hours if you plan to unmold the Bavarians. Remove the collar(s) or unmold onto plates. Serve with: