This is the best fruit soufflé we know; the concentrated flavor of the dried apricots adds a surprising richness.

Combine in a medium saucepan:

Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook for 20 minutes. Let cool, still covered, at least 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Prepare as for a soufflé mold six 8-ounce ramekins or eight 6- to 7-ounce ramekins.

Transfer the apricots and syrup to a blender. Add:

Puree until perfectly smooth, scraping the sides of the blender. If needed, add a tablespoon or two of water. Transfer the puree to a large bowl. Beat on medium speed until soft peaks form:

Increase the speed to high and gradually beat in:

Beat until the peaks are stiff but not dry. Fold one-third of the egg whites into the apricot puree, then fold in the remaining whites. Divide the batter equally among the prepared ramekins and smooth the tops. They should be filled to the brim. Transfer the ramekins to a baking sheet and bake just until well risen and beginning to brown, 11 to 15 minutes for the larger soufflés, 10 to 13 minutes for the smaller soufflés. Be careful not to overbake or they will fall and turn soupy in the center. If desired, open a slit in the top of each soufflé with 2 forks held back to back and spoon in: