I. TRADITIONAL

About 200 gnocchi; 18 first-course or 10 main-course servings

It is traditional to cook and sauce potato gnocchi like pasta and eat them as a first course or one-dish meal. Once cooked through, gnocchi are also excellent sautéed in butter and garlic, dressed with Parmesan, black pepper or red pepper flakes, and chopped fresh herbs.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Scrub well:

Prick each potato in a dozen places with a fork. Bake directly on an oven rack until easily pierced with a fork, about 1 hour. While the potatoes are still hot, split them lengthwise and scoop out the pulp into a potato ricer or food mill fitted with the finest disk. Rice or mill the potato onto a baking sheet and spread it out to let as much steam escape as possible. Once all the steam has dissipated, sprinkle and drizzle evenly over the potatoes:

Mix these ingredients into the potato using a dough scraper or spatula until combined. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and briefly knead until smooth. Bring 4 inches of well-salted water to a simmer in a large pot. Have ready:

Roll about 2 tablespoons of the dough into a ¾-inch-thick log. Cut crosswise into ¾-inch pieces. Press each piece against the tines of a fork, rolling it as you do; this will naturally cause the gnocchi to curl slightly, leaving one side indented and the other ridged. Test the gnocchi by dropping a few into the simmering water and cooking until they float, about 2 minutes. They should hold a firm shape and be chewy to the bite. If they are too soft or disintegrate, knead into the dough:

Test again. When the dough is right, roll the rest of the dough into three or four ¾-inch-thick ropes. Cut the ropes into ¾-inch pieces, shape the dough on the fork as directed above, letting them drop onto a lightly floured baking sheet. Bring the water back to a simmer. Do not let the water reach a full boil. Drop one-third to half of the gnocchi into the pot and simmer, uncovered, until they float, then remove with a slotted spoon or skimmer to a wide bowl. Never drain gnocchi by pouring the contents of the pot into a colander. Drizzle some of the melted butter over the gnocchi. Toss to coat. Repeat until all the gnocchi are done. Serve hot with:

To make gnocchi ahead, spread uncooked gnocchi on a lightly floured baking sheet and freeze until hard, then transfer to a freezer bag or container; they will keep frozen for up to 1 month. Cook directly from the freezer, adding about 1 minute to the cooking time.

II. QUICK

About 60 gnocchi; 4 servings

Instant potatoes turn gnocchi-making into a breezy, 15-minute affair rather than an hours-long commitment. While we cannot claim that they are equal to their from-scratch brethren in every way, they are tasty in their own right and a great way to get your bearings as you learn how to make gnocchi.

Place in a medium bowl:

Pour over them:

Stir to combine, then stir in:

Knead briefly until the mixture is smooth, then shape and cook as described in version I, dusting the surface with flour as needed.