Traditionally, japchae is served as a side dish, family-style, at large gatherings, but it makes a lovely vegetarian main dish as well. Many thanks to our friend Yeojin Park for this recipe.

Heat in a large skillet over medium-high heat:

Add and cook, stirring, until just tender, about 5 minutes:

Transfer the onions to a large bowl. Add to the skillet:

Cook until softened, about 5 minutes. If needed, add a little more oil to the skillet. Transfer the mushrooms to the bowl with the onions. Add to the skillet:

Cook, stirring, until barely tender, about 4 minutes. Transfer to the bowl with the other vegetables. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add:

Blanch for 1 minute, then use a slotted spoon or spider to transfer the spinach to a colander to drain. When cool enough to handle, press excess moisture out of the spinach and transfer to the bowl with the other vegetables.

Add to the boiling water:

Cover the pot, remove from the heat, and let the noodles steep until tender, 7 to 8 minutes. Drain well, shaking the noodles in the colander to remove excess water. Transfer the noodles to the bowl with the vegetables. Add:

Toss everything together and taste, adding more soy sauce or sesame oil if needed. Before serving, garnish with: