Traditionally Persian rice is cooked slowly in a heavy pot over direct heat so that a delicious crust, called tahdig, forms on the bottom. The crust is lifted out and served either on top of the soft cooked rice or in a separate dish. In this simplified version, the rice is baked in a nonstick skillet and inverted like a large pancake, with the crisp rice on top and the soft cooked rice underneath.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bring to a boil in a large pot:
Stir in:
Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the rice is almost tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and let stand in a sieve until ready to use. (Leave the spices in the rice.) Melt in a large ovenproof nonstick skillet over medium heat:
Spoon off 3 tablespoons of the butter and set aside. Add to the skillet:
Cook, stirring, until the onions are golden, about 8 minutes. Spread the onions in an even layer in the skillet. Stir into the cooked rice:
Spoon the rice over the onions. Smooth the top of the rice with the back of a large spoon and press down very firmly to pack it. Drizzle the reserved butter evenly over the top. Cover with a double layer of foil, pressing down on the top and crimping the edges. Transfer to the oven and bake for 1 hour.
Let stand, covered, for 10 minutes. Uncover the rice and invert a large round platter over the skillet. Protecting your hands with a kitchen towel, turn the skillet and platter over, allowing the rice to drop onto the platter. Sprinkle with: