Tamales can be wrapped in corn husks or banana leaves (see variation) and baked or steamed. (If neither is available, you can use 8 × 10-inch pieces of parchment paper.) To vary this recipe, use about 2 ½ cups Picadillo, shredded Braised Carnitas, or leftover shredded cooked chicken dressed with Red Mole or Green Mole. Or make vegetarian tamales with drained Frijoles de la Olla and cheese. Season the filling to taste with salt and spices before forming the tamales. To use fresh masa, substitute 4 cups (2 pounds) fresh masa for the masa harina/liquid mixture, beating it into the shortening or lard as directed and adding baking powder and salt.

Submerge in a bowl of warm water:

Let stand until soft and pliable, about 1 hour (you can leave them to soak overnight, if desired).

Combine on a plate:

Coat with the seasoning:

Heat in a large skillet over medium heat:

Add the chicken thighs and brown lightly on both sides, then cover and cook over medium-low heat until cooked through, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Add to the skillet and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes:

Add and cook, stirring, for another 2 minutes:

Transfer the onions and peppers to a medium bowl. Finely shred the cooked chicken, add it to the bowl with the onions, and set aside. Stir together in a large bowl until blended:

Slowly stir in until well combined:

Beat in another large bowl with an electric mixer on high speed until fluffy, about 2 minutes:

Gradually add the masa mixture one golf ball–sized piece at a time while beating on high speed. Once all the masa is added, continue beating until the dough is the consistency of fluffy mashed potatoes. In theory, the dough is ready when ½ teaspoon dropped into a glass of cold water floats, but even if it doesn’t, the tamales will still be delicious.

Drain the corn husks and pat dry. Set aside 16 of the biggest ones. Have ready:

Place a steamer insert or an expandable steamer in a deep stockpot, or use a tamale steamer. Fill the bottom of the pot or steamer with 1 to 2 inches of water (it should not touch the bottom of the steamer insert or rack). Line the bottom and sides of the pot or steamer with two-thirds of the remaining corn husks.

To form the tamales, lay one corn husk rough side up on a work surface, with the pointed end closer to you. Spread ¼ cup masa dough thinly over the wide part of the husk, leaving the pointed end bare. Spoon 2 tablespoons of the chicken mixture in a vertical line down the center of the masa, then sprinkle with 1 ½ tablespoons of the cheese. Fold over the left and right sides to enclose the filling (if the husk is too small to enclose the filling, wrap with another husk), then fold the pointed end up. If desired, secure the tamale with kitchen string or leave it untied. Stand the tamale in the steamer, open end up. As you form the rest of the tamales, place them in the steamer.

Cover the tamales with the remaining corn husks. Cover the pot, bring to a boil, and steam over medium heat until a husk peels away easily from the filling, about 1 hour. Add more boiling water to the pot during cooking if necessary.

Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 5 minutes before serving. Or let cool completely and refrigerate for several days, or freeze for up to 3 months. Reheat in the steamer before serving.