All meats used for jerky must be very fresh, or frozen when they were fresh. For beef and bison jerky, choose from the brisket flat, flank, top round, eye of round, or sirloin. For venison jerky, most cuts are lean enough to be used, but the leg and sirloin area are generally best (be sure to remove excessive silverskin). For pork jerky, choose portions from the loin or whole leg muscles. For fish, choose skinned fillets of nonoily types, such as trout and leaner varieties of tuna, and salmon such as sockeye or keta. For poultry jerky, choose skinless chicken or turkey breast.

Thoroughly sanitize work surfaces, drying racks, and utensils before starting. Trim off all visible fat from the outside of the meat, place on a rimmed baking sheet, and transfer to the freezer for 30 minutes. (If starting with frozen meat, thaw in the refrigerator just until you can easily slice through it.)

Slice the meat across any muscle grain into long strips no more than ¼ inch thick. If any pieces of fat or connective tissue are present in a strip, cut them out. As you work, transfer the cut strips to a rimmed baking sheet and keep in the refrigerator until you are done.

This is our preferred method for fish, which is likely to disintegrate or become mangled if dipped into a boiling marinade. Marinating is strictly optional here; some like the simplicity of salted and seasoned meat.

Transfer the strips to a bowl and cover with:

Marinate the strips for at least 3 hours in the refrigerator (or leave overnight), drain, and pat dry with paper towels. Alternatively, skip the marinade and simply season every pound of strips with:

Preheat a food dehydrator to 150°F and place the strips on drying racks in one loose layer so that they do not touch each other. Place the racks in the dehydrator and dry until the pieces crack but do not break when bent. Timing depends on the type of meat and its water-holding capacity, as well as the efficiency of your particular dehydrator. Allow up to 6 hours for pork and poultry, up to 8 hours for beef and venison, and up to 14 hours for fish. The jerky must be very dry, or bacteria will grow. Let it cool slightly before testing by bending.

Once the meat has dried, preheat the oven to 275°F. Transfer the jerky pieces in one layer to rimmed baking sheets and bake until the internal temperature of a slice reaches 160°F (or 165°F for poultry), about 10 minutes. This will ensure that any parasites or microorganisms have been killed. Let the jerky cool completely.

Pat off the surface oil with paper towels, and place the entire batch in an airtight container. Store for 4 days, shaking every day, to condition the jerky and distribute moisture equally. If any condensation develops on the lid, dry the jerky for longer and repeat the test.

Store jerky in zip-top freezer bags or a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Vacuum-packing works well: Exposure to air can cause off flavors and premature rancidity. Regardless of the type of container, label and date them. Store in a cool, dry, dark place, or refrigerate or freeze for longer storage. Properly dried jerky will keep for only about 2 weeks at cool room temperature, for 3 months in the refrigerator, and for up to 1 year in the freezer. If any mold forms, discard the package of jerky.

Heating strips in a simmering marinade prior to drying kills potentially harmful organisms and results in an especially tender jerky.

Prepare in a medium saucepan:

Freeze and slice the meat into ¼-inch-thick slices as directed in the headnote. Bring the marinade to a simmer and preheat a dehydrator to 150°F. Working in small batches, transfer several strips to the bubbling marinade and cook for 3 minutes. The internal temperature of the slices should reach 160°F (or 165°F for poultry). Shake off excess marinade from the cooked meat and transfer to drying racks in one loose layer so that the pieces do not touch. Repeat with the rest of the meat and place the racks in the dehydrator. Dry, test, condition, and store as directed for version I.