GOAT BIRRIA
8 to 10 servings

This rich adobo from Jalisco, Mexico, is perfect for stewing cuts of lamb and beef as well. We serve this with corn tortillas, but leftovers are an excellent filling for enchiladas, Burritos, and Tortas. If needed, omit any chiles you cannot find and substitute a little more of the ones you can. If using goat stew meat, be sure to check for bone fragments and warn diners (see About Goat).

Stem, seed, and roast:

  • 5 guajillo chiles
  • 4 ancho chiles
  • 2 dried chipotles

Place in a small bowl, cover with water, and soak for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, toast in a Dutch oven over medium heat until fragrant:

  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • (2 whole cloves)
  • (One 2- to 3-inch cinnamon stick)

Transfer the spices to a blender. Roast in the Dutch oven until charred on all sides:

  • 1 medium onion, halved
  • 8 unpeeled garlic cloves
  • 2 to 4 fresh serrano chiles, left whole

Remove to a small plate and let cool. Add to the pot:

  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil or lard

Add:

  • 4 pounds goat shoulder chops, or 3 pounds boneless goat stew meat

Brown on all sides, in batches, about 10 minutes. As the goat browns, peel the roasted garlic and remove the stem and seeds from the charred serranos. Add to the blender along with the drained, soaked chiles, charred onion halves, and:

  • ¼ cup cider vinegar or distilled white vinegar

Puree until smooth. When the goat is browned, transfer to a plate, scrape the pureed chile mixture into the pot, and fry, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add:

  • One 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, or 2 pounds fresh tomatoes, coarsely chopped
  • One 12-ounce bottle Mexican lager or 1 ½ cups water
  • 1 teaspoon dried oregano
  • 1 bay leaf

Return the goat to the pot and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the goat is very tender, about 3 hours.

Remove the bay leaf. Transfer the goat to a plate and skim off any fat from the surface. Increase the heat to medium-high and reduce the braising liquid by two-thirds. As the liquid reduces, shred the meat, removing any bones or gristly bits. When the liquid is thick and reduced, remove from the heat and return the meat to the pot. Taste and adjust the seasoning with:

  • Salt
  • Cider vinegar or distilled white vinegar

Serve with:

  • Corn tortillas, store-bought or homemade
  • Lime wedges
  • Chopped cilantro and green onions
Own a physical copy? Find this recipe on page 485–86.

Meat