For some of us, a pita filled with souvlaki is quintessential fair food. Feel free to substitute lamb shoulder or beef chuck for the pork.

Prepare:

and reserve the zested lemons. Slice across the grain into ¼- to ½-inch-thick slabs:

Cut these slabs into 1-inch-wide strips; cut any strip over 6 inches in half. Add the meat to a bowl or zip-top bag along with the marinade. Marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for at least 3 hours and up to 8 hours.

An hour before grilling, if using wooden skewers, soak them in water. Prepare a medium-hot, two-zone grill fire. Thread the pork onto skewers. Sear the skewers on one side until browned around the edges, about 3 minutes. Turn the skewers, drizzle with juice from one of the reserved lemons, and brown on the other side, another 2 to 3 minutes. As the skewers brown, pile them on top of one another on the cooler side of the grill; when the last skewers are browned, sprinkle the remaining lemon over the pile and cover the grill. Cook 10 minutes more.

Use as a filling for:

Or serve the skewers with: