For feeding a crowd, you can special order a whole “packer” brisket, which weighs 10 to 15 pounds and serves at least 12. Smoking whole brisket is notoriously difficult to master, and it can take upward of 16 hours to properly barbecue. To be safe, give yourself 20 hours from the time a whole brisket goes on the grate to when guests arrive; if done well ahead of time, wrap tightly in foil, place on a rimmed baking sheet, and keep warm in an oven set to its lowest temperature. Of course, smaller portions cut from the brisket are much more manageable. The easiest to find is the brisket flat, or “first cut,” which runs from 6 to 8 pounds. Unfortunately, the flat is very lean, which is why we recommend finding the marbled point end, or “second cut.” At an average of 3 to 4 pounds, they are relatively small, so you will need 2 or 3 to feed a crowd. If, heaven forbid, you have leftovers, cut the meat into 1-inch cubes and use to make a batch of Chili con Carne.

Please read about Barbecuing. Trim all but ¼ inch of fat from:

Rub all over with:

Place on a rack set in a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate uncovered overnight, or for up to 2 days.

Heat a smoker or grill set up for barbecuing to 225° to 250°F (preferably with a water pan). Add to the coals:

Add the brisket to the cooler side of the smoker or grill and cover so that the top vent pulls smoke across the meat. Adjust the vents to maintain the temperature (this is difficult and may take practice, or, in the worst case, a fresh load of charcoal). You may add another small chunk of hickory wood every hour for the first 4 hours. If you do not have a water pan inside to keep the smoker or grill humid, baste the meat every 2 hours with:

Smoke the brisket until it has reached an internal temperature of 200° to 205°F in its thickest part, or until the meat wants to shred easily when lightly prodded with a fork; this can take 10 to 14 hours for a brisket flat or point-end portions, and up to 20 hours for a whole brisket. To quicken the pace somewhat, you may wrap the brisket in a double thickness of foil when it reaches 150°F and return it to the smoker to finish cooking (keep in mind that this will soften the brisket’s crunchy, spice-rubbed surface, or “bark”).

When the brisket is tender, transfer to a rimmed baking sheet or large platter, remove any foil (save the juices!), and rest for at least 15 minutes. Slice across the grain and serve with:

If you have wrapped the brisket in foil, be sure to stir some of the accumulated juices into the sauce. For serving as sandwiches, set the barbecue sauce at the table and provide:

Or serve as part of a “meat-and-three” with the toast and coleslaw along with two (or more) of the following: