A sophisticated glaze or frosting for rich chocolate or nut tortes. For an even more bittersweet effect, substitute 1 ounce unsweetened chocolate for 1 ounce of the semisweet or bittersweet chocolate. Using water results in a clean-tasting chocolate glaze, which is a nice option if the chocolate you use is especially good.

Melt in a double boiler, a heatproof bowl set over simmering water, or in a microwave on 50 percent power in 20-second bursts, stirring often just until smooth:

Remove from the heat. With a silicone spatula, stir in 2 or 3 pieces at a time:

Continue to stir—do not beat—until perfectly smooth.

For a pourable glaze, let cool at room temperature, stirring occasionally, until the mixture reaches 90°F. For frosting, let cool further until spreadable. If the frosting becomes too stiff, set the bowl in a larger pan of hot water and stir until softened; or remelt and then cool to 90°F for use as a glaze. This keeps for up to 3 days at room temperature or for up to 3 weeks refrigerated.