I. Known in Italy as amaretti. A very light, fine-textured macaroon. For the French filled cookie, see Macarons.

Combine in a food processor:

Pulse until finely crumbled. With the machine running, slowly add and process until the mixture is smooth, about 1 minute:

Transfer the mixture to a large heavy saucepan and cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until slightly thickened, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate until cooled and slightly firm, 20 to 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease or line 2 baking sheets or cookie sheets with parchment paper.

Drop the dough by the heaping teaspoon about 2 inches apart onto the prepared baking sheets. Bake until the cookies are tinged with brown, 15 to 17 minutes, switching oven racks and rotating the sheets halfway through. Let cool on the sheets for 2 to 3 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

II. A richly flavored macaroon made with freshly ground blanched almonds for a more rustic texture. This is our preferred cookie for serving with Affogato.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line 2 baking sheets or cookie sheets with parchment paper.

Grind in two batches in a food processor until finely ground but not powdery:

Transfer to a medium bowl. Stir in:

The mixture will be crumbly but should hold together when squeezed. Drop by the tablespoon in mounds 1 inch apart onto the baking sheets. Bake until lightly browned, 15 to 18 minutes, switching oven racks and rotating the sheets halfway through. Let cool on the sheets for 2 to 3 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.