Cannelés are a specialty of the Bordeaux region of France. These little cakes have a custardy center with a deeply browned, burnished crust. They can be finicky to make, and the copper molds used to bake them are expensive. However, if you are a cannelé devotee, they are worth the price. Silicone cannelé molds may be used, but they do not produce results as irresistible as those baked in copper molds.

Combine in a medium saucepan:

Place over medium heat until the butter is melted and the milk is just steaming, not simmering or boiling. Combine in a food processor and pulse together:

Add and pulse until incorporated:

Transfer the hot milk to a liquid measuring cup with a pouring lip. With the machine running, add the hot milk through the feed tube until incorporated. Add:

Pulse briefly to incorporate. Let the batter cool, then refrigerate, covered, overnight.

Position racks in the upper third and center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Let the batter come to room temperature while the oven preheats. If using copper molds, place them on a baking sheet and heat them in the oven for 10 minutes. When ready to bake, coat each mold with cooking spray or brush lightly with:

Stir the batter well, then fill the molds three-quarters full. Bake on the center rack for 10 minutes, then rotate the pan front to back in the oven, reduce the temperature to 350°F, and bake for 30 minutes. Move the cannelé molds to the top oven rack and bake until deeply browned, 30 to 40 minutes more. Remove the cannelés from the molds immediately to cool completely on a rack.