These buttery French tea cakes, something between a sponge cake and a butter cake in texture, are traditionally baked in scallop-shaped madeleine molds, but you can use miniature muffin tins or small tartlet pans in any shape.

Have all ingredients at room temperature, about 70°F.

Sift together and then return to the sifter:

Mash and beat in a medium bowl with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula until the consistency of mayonnaise:

Beat in a large bowl, or in a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, on high speed until thick and pale yellow, 2 to 5 minutes:

Sift the flour mixture over the top and fold in with a silicone spatula. Fold a dollop of the egg mixture into the butter to lighten it, then scrape the butter mixture back into the remaining egg mixture and fold together. Let rest for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Using melted butter, generously grease 1 or 2 madeleine pans with 12 molds each.

Fill the molds three-quarters full; set any remaining batter aside. Bake until the cakes are golden on the top and golden brown around the edges, 8 to 10 minutes. Immediately loosen each cake with the tip of a slim knife and unmold onto a rack to cool. If necessary, wipe the molds clean and let cool, rebutter them, fill with the remaining batter, and bake. These are best the day they are made but they can be stored in an airtight container for a day or two.