A delightfully tender, moist, close-grained sponge that rolls beautifully without cracking.

Have all ingredients at room temperature, about 70°F. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease a 17 ½ × 11 ½-inch rimmed baking sheet and line the bottom with parchment paper.

Measure and return to the sifter:

Heat in a small saucepan until the butter is melted:

Combine in a large bowl, or in a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, and beat until light-colored, tripled in volume, and the consistency of softly whipped cream (about 5 minutes in a stand mixer, 7 to 10 minutes with a handheld mixer):

Beat in:

Reheat the butter and milk until steaming hot. Sift the flour mixture in 3 additions over the top of the egg mixture and fold in. Add the hot milk mixture all at once and fold in until well combined. Scrape the batter into the pan and spread evenly. Bake until the top is golden brown and springs back when lightly pressed, 8 to 10 minutes. While the cake is still hot, run a knife along the edges to release it from the pan. Immediately invert the cake onto a sheet of parchment paper on top of a sheet pan or cutting board and remove the pan. Let the cake cool completely before peeling off the paper liner.

Peel off the paper liner and place a fresh sheet of parchment paper on top. Flip the cake and peel off the parchment paper the cake was cooled on, removing the brown “skin” from the cake as you do so. Spread the cake with:

Roll, wrap, and refrigerate as for Cake Sheet for Roll Cakes.

If desired, frost with:

or sift over the cake before serving: