Traditionally baked in a cast-iron skillet, this cake was devised to promote canned pineapple. The pineapple rings and maraschinos may be replaced with wedges of fresh apricots, peaches, or plums, if desired. For a gooier topping (one of the joys of this cake), you have two options: Either increase the butter in the pan to 6 tablespoons (85g) and the brown sugar to 1 cup (230g), or bake the cake in an 8-inch pan and increase only the butter to 4 tablespoons (55g).

Have all ingredients at room temperature, about 70°F. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Have ready a 9-inch skillet or a 9 × 2-inch round cake pan.

Drain and place in 1 layer on paper towels to absorb the excess juice:

Place in the skillet or cake pan:

Place the skillet in the oven until the butter is melted, or melt it on top of the stove. Tilt to coat all sides with butter. The extra butter will settle at the bottom of the skillet. Sprinkle evenly over the bottom of the skillet:

Place 1 pineapple ring in the center of the skillet and arrange 6 more around it. Place in the center of each ring and in the spaces between them:

Whisk together in a small bowl with a fork:

Whisk together in a large bowl, or a stand mixer with the paddle attachment:

Add:

Beat on low speed just until the flour is moistened, then increase the speed to medium, or high if using a handheld mixer, and beat for exactly 1 ½ minutes. The batter will be stiff. Add the egg mixture in 3 parts, beating for exactly 20 seconds and scraping the bowl after each addition. Scrape the batter over the fruit in the skillet and spread evenly. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes.

Remove the cake from the oven and tilt the skillet in all directions to detach the cake from the sides of the skillet. Let cool for 2 to 3 minutes before unmolding. Invert a serving platter on top of the skillet. Cover your hands with oven mitts and turn the cake onto the platter. Lift off the skillet. If any fruit pieces are askew, use a fork to push them back into place. If any brown sugar is left in the skillet, spoon it over the cake. Serve warm or cool.