A very tall, moist, and tender cake. For a thin sheet for roll cakes and charlottes, bake as for Cake Sheet for Roll Cakes. For a high-altitude version of this cake, see here.
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Have ready a clean, dry, ungreased 10-inch angel food cake pan or tube pan.
Sift together 3 times:
Combine in a large bowl or in a stand mixer with the whisk attachment and beat on low speed for 1 minute:
Increase the speed to medium-high and beat until the mixture increases 4 to 5 times in volume and resembles a bowl of soft foam. (This takes anywhere from 3 to 5 minutes.) The foam will hold a very soft, moist shape when the beaters are lifted. On medium-high speed, beat in 1 tablespoon at a time, taking 2 to 3 minutes:
When all the sugar has been added, the foam will be creamy white and hold soft, moist, glossy peaks that bend over at the points; do not beat until stiff. If the mixer bowl is nearly full, transfer the mixture to a wide 4- to 6-quart bowl for easier folding. Sift one-quarter of the flour mixture evenly over the whipped egg whites and fold gently with a silicone spatula only until the flour is almost incorporated; do not stir or mix. Repeat 3 more times, folding in the last addition until no traces of flour are visible. Pour the batter into the pan and tilt or spread to level the top. Bake until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes.
Invert the cake immediately and cool upside down in the pan to prevent it from sinking. If using an angel food cake pan, set it on the feet of the pan to hold it above the surface of the table or if using a regular tube pan, prop it higher by resting the tube on a bottle or inverted metal funnel. Let the cake cool for at least 1 ½ hours, until it is thoroughly set.
Slide a thin knife around the cake to detach it from the pan. Using the same procedure, detach the cake from the center tube. If the pan has a removable bottom, pull the tube up to lift the cake from the pan sides. Slide the knife under the cake to detach it from the bottom. If the pan does not have a removable bottom, invert the pan and tap it against the counter to loosen the cake. Allow the cake to drop onto a rack or serving platter.