The soaking process is what makes this corn bread special, so don’t be tempted to skip it. It makes for an incredibly moist crumb and softens the coarser cornmeal. If you want corn bread for dinner, simply start soaking the cornmeal in the morning before you leave for work (a process that takes 5 minutes), then finish the corn bread when you get home.

Stir together in a small bowl:

Pour over the cornmeal:

Stir to make sure all the cornmeal is wet, then cover and let soak for 4 to 12 hours.

Preheat the oven to 450°F with a 9-inch cast-iron skillet inside.

Add to the soaked cornmeal and stir to incorporate:

Stir in:

Use the larger amount of buttermilk if the batter seems too thick after adding ½ cup. The batter should be fairly loose, almost like pancake batter. Remove the hot skillet from the oven and add:

Swirl the fat around in the skillet to coat it, then pour in the batter. Be careful—it will sizzle dramatically. Return the skillet to the oven and bake until deep golden brown and firm, 20 to 25 minutes. Turn the corn bread out onto a plate and serve immediately.