These rolls are so rich they need not be buttered.

Have ready:

Pour ⅓ cup of the buttermilk into a glass measure. Add and let stand until dissolved, about 5 minutes:

Pour the remaining buttermilk into a large bowl. Add the dissolved yeast along with:

Stir in:

Transfer to a work surface and knead until smooth and elastic. Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl and turn once to coat with oil. Cover with a clean cloth and let rise until slightly more than doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

Divide the dough in half. Roll each half into a 9 × 18-inch rectangle about ⅛ inch thick. Let rest 10 minutes.

Brush the dough with:

Cut each rectangle lengthwise into 6 strips 1 ½ inches wide. Make 2 stacks of 6 strips each and use a bench scraper or a string (see the illustration below) to cut each stack into twelve 1 ½-inch lengths (a total of 24 rolls). Place the rolls in 2 buttered muffin tins, one cut side facing up. Loosely cover with oiled plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place (75° to 85°F) until doubled in bulk, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

While the rolls rise, preheat the oven to 400°F.

Bake until well browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the rolls to a wire rack to cool.