This is a basic, not-too-sweet dough that can be used for variously shaped dinner rolls.

Combine in a small bowl and stir to dissolve the sugar and melt the butter:

Combine in a large bowl and let stand until the yeast is dissolved, about 5 minutes:

Stir the milk mixture into the yeast. Beat in:

Have ready:

Stir in part of the flour, then transfer the dough to a work surface and knead in the rest, using only enough to form a dough that can be handled easily. Place in an oiled bowl. Brush the top with:

Cover and let the dough rise in a warm place (75° to 85°F) until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

Roll the dough out into a 30-inch-long log and cut into 1-inch pieces. Roll each piece into a ball and flatten into a 2-inch round. Dip the handle of a wooden spoon in flour or rub flour on a rolling pin and use it to make a deep crease across the middle of each roll. Fold the rolls over on the crease and press the edges together lightly. Place about 2 inches apart in rows on greased baking sheets. Let rise in a warm place (75° to 85°F) until puffy, about 35 minutes.

While the dough rises, preheat the oven to 425°F.

Bake until golden brown, 15 to 18 minutes. Transfer the rolls to a wire rack to cool.