While this recipe is long, the process is really quite simple. There are different stages at which the dough can be retarded if you need to walk away from it for a while. If desired, any of the additions to yeast doughs may be added at the same time as the salt.

Mix together in a large bowl or a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook:

Add:

Mix by hand or on low speed until a sticky dough forms. Cover the bowl and let the dough rest for 30 minutes.

Mix in by hand or with the dough hook until combined:

Transfer to a bowl just large enough to hold the dough with a little room to spare. Let the dough rise in a draft-free place until increased in volume (it will not double in volume like doughs made with commercial yeast), 3 to 4 hours. If the dough is in a glass or clear plastic container, you will be able to see air bubbles. Alternatively, after mixing in the salt, cover the dough tightly and refrigerate for 12 to 14 hours.

Turn out the dough onto a very lightly floured work surface. Divide it into 2 equal pieces, and round the dough into balls. Cover and let rest for 15 minutes. Give the dough a final shape into rounds. Lightly flour 2 thin kitchen towels (flour sack towels work nicely) and use them to line 2 bannetons or bowls just large enough to hold the dough. Transfer the shaped rounds, seam side up, to the baskets or bowls, cover, and let rise until a finger gently pressed into the dough leaves an imprint that does not spring back, 3 to 4 hours. Or cover and refrigerate the loaves up to 12 hours.

To bake the loaves in a Dutch oven or combo cooker, preheat the oven to 500°F for 45 minutes with the Dutch oven or combo cooker in the oven as it preheats. Uncover one of the loaves and gently remove it from the basket or bowl. Use lightly floured hands to transfer it carefully, seam side down, to the hot Dutch oven (be careful not to burn your hands or arms) or skillet part of the combo cooker. Score the dough with a lame or a very sharp knife, cover with the lid or the deeper part of the combo cooker, and return it to the oven. Bake for 15 minutes, then remove the lid, reduce the heat to 450°F, and bake until deeply browned, 15 to 20 minutes more. Transfer the bread to a rack to cool completely. Return the empty Dutch oven or combo cooker to the oven, increase the oven temperature to 500°F, and let the Dutch oven or combo cooker preheat for at least 10 minutes before baking the second loaf.

To bake the loaves on a baking stone, steel, or baking sheet, position racks in the center and lower third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Place the stone, steel, or baking sheet on the center rack to preheat. Place a metal baking pan or cast-iron skillet on the lower rack. Once hot, take the stone, steel, or baking sheet out of the oven. Turn out the loaves, seam side down, onto the stone, steel, or pan, score them, and place in the oven. Immediately pour 1 cup hot water into the baking pan or skillet on the lower rack and close the oven door. Bake until deeply golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool completely.