Prepare the sponge for Rustic French Bread, and when making the dough (when the sponge is mixed with more flour, water, and salt), add ½ cup coarsely chopped pitted black olives such as Kalamata and 2 tablespoons minced rosemary. When it is time to divide the dough, divide it into 4 equal pieces. Roll each piece of dough into a rough triangular shape about ½ inch thick. Use a knife, pizza cutter, or bench scraper to cut one lengthwise slash in the dough starting 1 inch below the tip of the triangle and ending 1 inch above the base of the triangle. Cut 3 diagonal slashes on either side of the longer central slash (like drawing the veins on a leaf). Gently stretch the dough on all sides to open up the slashes and prevent them from sealing themselves during rising and baking. Cover the loaves and let rise until puffy, 1 ½ to 2 hours. Before baking, spritz the loaves lightly with water. Set up the oven racks and water pan as directed above and bake 2 loaves at a time, until golden brown, about 30 minutes per batch. Skip the crust-setting step.