The most common argument against tongue has nothing to do with its superlative flavor, but its uniquely tender texture. The best antidote—the one that will make tongue-haters into tongue-seekers—is to cook the tongue to tenderness, then grill or pan-fry for a crispy contrast. Serve this beguiling mixture in Tacos, burritos, and Tortas.

Scrub and simmer until tender as described:

Once cooled, peeled, and trimmed, slice the tongue across the grain into ½-inch-thick slices. Sprinkle the slices with:

Set aside. Place in a large, dry skillet over medium heat:

Pan-roast them, turning occasionally, until the peppers and onions are blackened on all sides and beginning to shrivel. Transfer the vegetables to a cutting board. Increase the heat to medium-high and add:

When the fat shimmers, brown the tongue slices in batches, about 4 minutes on each side. As they brown, transfer them to a platter and add more fat to the skillet if necessary. When all the slices are browned, reduce the heat to medium. Discard the stems and seeds from the jalapeños and coarsely chop them with the roasted onions and reserved onion greens. Add the vegetables to the skillet along with:

Cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes more. Coarsely chop the browned tongue into slender, bite-sized pieces (or smaller for filling tacos) and return to the skillet. Season to taste with: