Soaking country hams in several changes of water reduces their saltiness. Some especially well-cured specimens may take a very long time to soak. Please keep in mind that even after soaking, country ham will always be saltier than baked city ham, so make portions smaller accordingly—and always slice across the grain.

Place in a large stockpot, with the shank end facing up:

Add cold water to cover. Let soak for 24 hours, or 48 hours for especially aged hams, changing the water every 6 hours or so. Scrub the ham well, using a stiff brush to remove any mold, trim off all dried meat that was exposed to the air during aging, and rinse thoroughly. The best way to determine if the ham is soaked long enough is to go by taste (properly cured country hams are safe to eat raw). Make a slender V-shaped notch cut 2 inches deep into the larger muscle exposed by trimming. Taste the meat at the interior edge of this “core sample” for saltiness. If the ham is still too salty to your taste, thoroughly clean the pot out and soak for longer.

Once soaked to your liking, drain off the water, clean the stockpot, and return the ham to it, shank end up. Add water to cover (it is fine if the tough shank end rises above the water). Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to maintain a low simmer, cover if possible, and cook until the meat reaches an internal temperature of 145°F (about 15 minutes for every pound of ham). Add more boiling water if necessary.

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Drain the ham, transfer to a work surface, and remove the skin while it is still warm. Trim the fat so that it is no more than ¼ inch thick. Mix together in a small bowl:

Dust the surface of the ham with this mixture and place on a rack in a roasting pan. Transfer to the oven and bake until the outside is golden and beginning to brown, about 15 minutes. Cut the ham in slices perpendicular to the bone (or carve off large portions from the bone and slice on a cutting board across the grain). For the most tender results, make the slices very thin. Serve warm or at room temperature.