Japan’s famous “friendship dish” is prepared ceremoniously at table in an electric skillet or wok—or, less festively, in the kitchen in a wok or heavy skillet. Sukiyaki is traditionally served with beaten raw egg for dipping the cooked ingredients in. Shungiku, or chrysanthemum greens, are traditional to cook with this dish. Gathered from the crown daisy, they have a nice grassy, herbal flavor. Use the leaves as well as the crispy stems. Young, tender leaves (and flowers) can be added to salads, but the larger, mature greens should be cooked as they are here, stir-fried, or chopped and added as a garnish for hot soups.

For easy slicing, freeze for 20 minutes:

Slice ⅛ inch thick across the grain and arrange on a platter. Also arrange attractively on the platter:

Combine in a small bowl:

Heat in a wok or skillet over medium heat until shimmering:

Add the beef and cook, turning frequently, without browning, about 3 minutes. Transfer the meat to a small plate. Add the sake mixture to the wok, cover, and bring to a simmer. Make neat little piles of the green onions, mushrooms, cabbage, tofu, bamboo shoots, and shirataki in the wok. Braise just until the mushrooms have softened; the vegetables should retain their crispness and color. As the ingredients cook through, remove them with a pair of chopsticks and divide among plates. Add the meat back to the broth as needed to reheat and season it. After all the ingredients have been eaten, if desired, add to the sauce remaining in the wok:

The noodles will become coated with the sauce.