Skin-on breasts are essential here, so do not use meat from a bird that does not pass the palatability test, above. Because wild ducks and geese are so variable in size, we do not give a yield here. Plan on about 6 ounces of meat per serving. Please read Cooking Wildfowl and About Wild Duck and Goose.

Have ready:

Use a sharp knife to score the skin in a ½-inch crosshatch pattern (without cutting the meat). Season generously with:

Place in a heavy skillet:

For large duck or goose breasts, place the breasts skin side down in the skillet and turn the heat up to medium-high. For small duck breasts, preheat the skillet over medium-high heat until the fat shimmers, then add the breasts. Let the breasts cook, undisturbed, until the skin is golden brown and crispy, 3 to 12 minutes (the lesser amount of time for very small duck breasts, and the greater amount of time for goose breasts). During the first couple minutes of cooking, use a spatula to press down on the breasts to ensure the entire surface of the skin is in contact with the skillet. Flip the breasts and cook 1 to 8 minutes (the lesser amount of time for very small duck breasts, and the greater amount of time for goose breasts), or until the internal temperature reaches 125° to 130°F. Transfer the breasts to a plate, tent with foil, and let rest for 2 to 10 minutes depending on the size of the breasts. Serve immediately.