FRENCH CASSEROLE CHICKEN
4 to 6 servings

This dish was originally intended for cooking old stewing chickens. Marion Becker’s original headnote wryly stated “Whenever we see one of our contemporaries trying to regain her youthful allure with gaudy sartorial trappings, we think of a dish we found in a collection of college alumnae recipes, called ‘Suprême of Old Hen.’ ” These days, most chickens are so young and tender that we have changed the recipe to use all thighs. If you are in fact using a stewing hen, plan on braising it for much longer than this recipe instructs, until very tender.

Have ready:

  • 2 ½ pounds bone-in chicken thighs or whole legs

Sprinkle with:

  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 1 teaspoon black pepper

Heat in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat:

  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Add the chicken in batches and brown on both sides. Transfer to a plate and set aside. Add to the pot and sauté until the onions are translucent, about 10 minutes:

  • 2 tart apples, cored and chopped
  • 4 celery ribs with leaves, chopped
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 4 sprigs parsley

Add:

  • ⅓ cup dry white wine

Scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Add and stir to combine:

  • 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

Return the chicken to the pot along with:

  • 1 ½ cups chicken stock or broth

Bring the liquid to a boil, cover the pot tightly, and gently simmer over low heat until the internal temperature of the chicken reaches 175° to 180°F, about 45 minutes.

Transfer the chicken to a serving dish, strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve, and return to medium-high heat to reduce the sauce by one-third to thicken. Skim any fat from the surface with a spoon. Take off the heat and whisk in:

  • ½ cup sour cream or crème fraîche
  • 2 teaspoons minced tarragon
  • Salt and black pepper to taste

Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve.


Poultry and Wildfowl