When the old rooster, or coq, lost his crow, he would find himself the main ingredient in this classic French braise. It is commonly made with red wine, but if you would like to try a white, choose one that is fruity, such as riesling or chardonnay. This recipe is written for supermarket chickens, which are uniformly young and tender. If you have a rooster or stewing hen, plan on braising it for much longer than this recipe instructs, until very tender. Any leftover sauce from this recipe can be used to make Oeufs en Meurette.
Have ready:
If using a whole bird, remove the neck and giblets and cut the chicken into 10 pieces (see About Cutting Up Raw Poultry). Season the chicken with:
Cook in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat until browned:
Transfer to a plate. Add as many pieces of chicken to the pot as will fit and cook until browned on both sides, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Brown the remaining pieces. Pour off all but 3 tablespoons of the fat from the pot. Add:
Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Stir in:
Reduce the heat to low. Cook, stirring constantly, until the flour just begins to turn light brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in:
Increase the heat to high and bring the sauce to a boil, stirring constantly. Return the bacon and chicken, with any accumulated juices, to the pot. Return the sauce to a boil, then reduce the heat so that the liquid barely simmers, cover, and cook until the internal temperature of the breast pieces reaches 160°F, about 25 minutes. Transfer to a plate and simmer the thighs and drumsticks until they reach 175°F, about 10 minutes longer. Return the breasts to the pot when all of the pieces are done.
Meanwhile, melt in a wide skillet over medium-high heat:
Add, if desired:
Cook, stirring often, until lightly browned and just tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Add:
Cook, stirring, until the mushrooms release their juices. Take the skillet off the heat. Transfer the chicken to a platter and cover with foil. Discard the bay leaves. Bring the sauce to a boil over high heat and reduce until syrupy, using a spoon to skim off the fat as it accumulates. Add the mushrooms and onions, if using, with the pan juices to the sauce and heat through. Season to taste with:
Pour the sauce over the chicken. If desired, garnish with: