This chicken has the crackling crisp skin and distinctive mahogany color that are the hallmarks of the dish. The buttermilk marinade is optional but highly recommended. To vary the results with other marinades, brines, and crusts, see About Frying Chicken.

Have ready:

Separate any legs into thighs and drumsticks; cut breasts crosswise in half. If marinating the chicken, prepare:

Add the chicken and turn to coat well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. Remove the meat from the marinade, allowing any excess to drip off.

Combine in a sturdy paper or zip-top bag and shake to mix:

Shake the chicken a few pieces at a time in the bag until well coated and let dry on a rack set over a baking sheet at room temperature for 30 minutes or, for a crispier result, refrigerate overnight (bring to room temperature before frying).

Preheat the oven to 200°F. Heat in a deep heavy skillet (preferably cast iron) over medium-high heat:

When the oil is hot enough (about 350°F or when a small corner of a chicken piece dipped into the fat causes vigorous bubbling), gently place the chicken, in batches, skin side down in the hot fat, without crowding. Cook for 10 minutes or until browned on the first side; check after 5 minutes and move the pieces if they are coloring unevenly or turn the heat down if the chicken is browning too quickly. Turn the chicken with tongs and cook until the second side is richly browned, 10 to 12 minutes more. Breast pieces should read 160°F, thighs and drumsticks should reach 175°F. Transfer the chicken to a rack set over a baking sheet lined with paper towels or a brown paper bag and place in the oven to keep warm while you fry the remaining pieces.

After cooking all the chicken, you may pour the fat out of the skillet, retaining the browned bits, and prepare with milk:

Pass the sauce at the table.