You can steam any clam you like, but soft-shell clams are the traditional steamers, in large part because it is difficult to purge them entirely of sand. Once strained of sand, the resulting broth gives you a flavorful dip in which you can rinse the clams before eating. Since they are not as sandy, steam hard-shell clams as for mussels.

Place in a large pot with an inch or so of water:

Cover the pot, turn the heat to high, and cook, shaking the pot occasionally, until the clams are all open, 5 to 10 minutes. Overcooking makes clams tough. Meanwhile, melt in a small saucepan over low heat:

When the clams are cooked, transfer them with a slotted spoon to a large bowl. Strain the broth, then season to taste with:

Pour the butter into separate dishes for each diner. Serve the broth in cups along with the clams and garnish with:

To eat the clams, lift them out of the shell by the neck (siphon). Peel off the sheath (tough outer skin) of the neck. Swish the clam in the broth to remove any sand, and then dip in butter. The broth is delicious to drink, but, to avoid any residue of sand, either strain it through a fine-mesh sieve (or don’t entirely drain the cup).