According to one of the origin stories for this dish, which we like to believe, Louis XIV, on campaign against the Dutch, had sent a courier ahead to his chef, detailing just what he desired for dinner. The roads were nearly impassable, the hour grew late, and the chef, who had managed to keep most of the elaborate menu in reasonably prime condition, found to his consternation as the king’s party clattered into the courtyard that his pommes frites had gone utterly limp. In a frenzy, he immersed the potatoes in the hot fat a second time, madly agitated the pan, and behold!—the potatoes puffed dramatically, turning hollow and crisp.

In his relief at having something to serve, the chef evidently didn’t mind throwing out a significant number of unpuffed slices: Even experts who make the dish daily expect a 10 percent failure rate. To improve upon this dismal statistic, restaurants famous for the dish age potatoes to lower their water content. It is said that potatoes with skin that can no longer be pierced or scraped off with a fingernail are ideal.

Please read about Deep-Frying.

Scrub and peel:

Square off the potatoes, then cut them lengthwise into ⅛-inch-thick slabs that are of uniform thickness (a mandoline is ideal). Once you have these long even slices, you can cut them into the classic rectangular shape with rounded corners, as shown, or into ovals. Soak the slices in ice water for at least 25 minutes. Drain and dry them thoroughly. Meanwhile, heat to 275°F in a deep saucepan or sauté pan:

Working in batches, drop in the potato slices one by one. Do not crowd the pan. The slices will sink. This next admonition is not without danger for the unskilled! When, after a few seconds, the slices rise, shake the pot back and forth continuously. This will create a wave-like action to keep the floating slices bathed in the fat. Continue to cook, turning at least once, until the slices begin to turn transparent toward the centers. Drain on paper towels. The potatoes may be refrigerated up to 4 hours before the second cooking, but bring them to room temperature before frying the second time. To proceed at once, let them cool and drain for about 5 minutes.

Just before you are ready to serve, heat the fat to 385°F. Drop the potato slices again one by one into the fat, again agitating the pan as described. The potatoes should puff at once. Cook to a golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle to taste with:

Serve the puffed potatoes at once, preferably in a basket as shown, to keep them crisp. If they are not crisp enough, return them to the fat for a few seconds. Drain again.