A properly executed souffléed omelet has a lovely brown, firm, dry exterior enveloping a soft, airy center.

I. SAVORY WITH CHEESE AND HERBS

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Whisk until thick and light:

In a large bowl, beat until stiff but not dry:

Fold the yolk mixture gently into the whites. Melt in a 10- to 12-inch ovenproof skillet over medium heat:

When the foam has subsided, pour the egg mixture into the skillet, spread evenly, and smooth the top. Shake the skillet after a few seconds to discourage sticking, then cover with a lid whose underside has been buttered to prevent sticking. Reduce the heat and cook for about 5 minutes. Remove the lid and sprinkle on top of the omelet:

Place the skillet in the oven and cook until the top is set, 3 to 5 minutes. Fold the omelet in half, if desired, and slide it out onto a warmed plate.

II. SWEET JAM-FILLED

Prepare Savory Souffléed Omelet, omitting the salt and pepper in the egg yolk mixture and adding instead 3 tablespoons sugar. Omit the herbs and cheese. Before folding the omelet, fill it with 2 tablespoons warm jam mixed with 1 teaspoon rum, brandy, or lemon juice.